On that respectfully calm morning, in autumn sunshine, we spent time in the historic grounds of Sawley Abbey, and with the benefit of Marion’s extensive research we absorbed the affect of the ancient ruins in their tranquil setting.

Sawley Abbey was founded in 1146/7 on land given by William, 3^rd Lord Percy, and Abbot Benedict established twelve Cistercian monks on the site, having moved from Newminster in Northumberland.  Cistercian monks from an Order founded in France were often known as the White Monks due to their hooded habits in white wool with a black girdle.  The location was on the very edge of Percy land, on the border of the de Lacy fiefdom, not in a remote area but on a main east-west route, with farms and villages, a pastoral economy.  This later involved the Abbey in much hospitality which put a strain on resources.  Soon after the foundation of the Abbey, Henry de Lacy gave permission for the monks to strengthen their dam, make a fishpond and build a mill.  They also were able to share the rights of pannage etc. in the forest with the farming community.

The Abbey is considered to be one of the earliest Cistercian churches to be built in England. The original buildings of wood and thatch were gradually extended and rebuilt in stone.  Its walls were faced in sandstone from nearby quarries, infilled with rubble, which is clearly seen now in the ruins.  Many decorative stone features are still carefully displayed, and some more substantial areas of the ruins distinctly reveal their original purpose.

The early years proved difficult for the monks, especially in developing crops, as the seasonal weather was very inclement and the pastures were poorly drained, but the monks became pioneers in sheep rearing and much of their wealth came from the transactions in wool and sheep.  They also developed a herd of the ancient white park cattle.  Many endowments were received to sustain the abbey, including gifts of land, but Sawley endured a stormy period in their history when Whalley Abbey was founded in 1296.  This close proximity intrusion developed restrictions in the area of buying and marketing produce, which consequently created challenging competitive prices.  The two abbeys were always bickering so it was necessary for four Abbots to draw up a Special Order in 1305 against transgression by either party.  The early 14^th century was also subjected to numerous raids by marauding Scots which resulted in the destruction of some outlying Abbey property and the loss of livestock.

Although the monks studied in the strict and literal adherence to the doctrine of St. Benedict, and maintained their praising of God seven times each day, they did help with some of the manual work of the Abbey.  However, it was the lay brothers, generally uneducated though devotedly religious, who were involved more industriously in the manual work on the Abbey farms.  The Cistercians were well known for their skill in transforming waste into profitable farmland.  The community of Sawley grew steadily during the 1300s until by 1381 there were nearly 30 monks, including novices, and 45 servants at the Abbey and, for the first time, its future seemed secure.

When Sawley Abbey was to suffer at the hands of Henry VIII and Thomas Cromwell in 1536, a new rising had begun to form in Westmorland and Cumberland, and spread into Yorkshire.  Many men of north east Lancashire and the Yorkshire Dales joined the Pilgrimage of Grace in an attempt to keep Sawley and Whalley Abbeys intact.  Nicholas Tempest of Bashall and Stephen Hamerton of Hamerton Hall near Slaidburn were local leaders.  This proved impossible and Tempest and Hamerton were executed.  The last Abbot of Sawley, Thomas Bolton, and the last Abbot Whalley, John Paslew, were hanged in Lancaster in 1537.

To prevent Sawley Abbey becoming a focus of resistance to the Protestant religion, the buildings were dismantled and much of the stone sold, but many pieces of carved stone can still be found in buildings and walls in Sawley village and on surrounding farms.  Our day included a walk in the village and we were able to identify some of the historic features, and appreciated the continuity of the pastoral life.

Sawley Abbey and all the lands in Yorkshire which it had controlled remained in the hands of the D’Arcy family until the beginning of the 17^th century.  The Estate was gradually broken up and the Abbey itself passed through a number of hands.  By the beginning of the 18^th century it had become a celebrated ruin, drawn not only by the Buck brothers in the 1720s but by Turner and many other 18^th and 19^th century artists.  In 1934 Sawley Estate was purchased by J.E. Fattorini of Bradford and it is now managed by English Heritage.

Much of this information has been gathered from the writings of Gerald Halstead – “Survey of the Remains of Sawley Abbey”, 1951, and a publication by English Heritage.  Marion’s research notes are very comprehensive and, as with all the History Group’s projects, files are kept.

Words and pictures by Phyllida Oates

Content created by Keith P.

Items for further consideration:

• The Cistercian order originated from Citeaux in France, now Saint-Nicholas-Les-Citeaux. The abbey continues to be in use;
• Fountains Abbey and Furness Abbey were major Cistercian Abbeys in the North and, according to an information board at Furness Abbey, their lands bordered in east Lancashire and Craven areas. Sawley leaned towards Fountains as Newminster Abbey was founded by Fountains;
• Coming from the sea, nearby Ribchester was the first place where the Ribble could be crossed in the Middle Ages. Thus an abbey in this area would be an important place for trade;
• According to Wikipedia, contributing factors to the “Pilgrimage of Grace” were:
  • In 1535 a bad harvest had resulted in Grain Riots in Craven;
  • In 1536 the Abbot at Sawley had re-built parts of the abbey destroyed in the Suppression and re-instated Nuns and Monks into the accommodation given to Henry VIII’s supporters, thereby offending the King;
  • 1536 was the year Katherine of Aragon died and Anne Boleyn was executed. In the North, Catholic Katherine was popular and suspected Protestant Anne’s charges of adultery and treason had undermined the monarch’s prestige;
• The decision to initiate the Pilgrim of Grace took place in the Blue room at Raby Castle

Tracery from Sawley Abbey windows can be found near Beckermonds as reported in “News 11 Jun 21” (click here) and in a study of the Lancaster-Richmond-Newcastle coach road in 2012 by Jim Hutchinson and his comprehensive findings are on this website “Coach road Lancaster- Newcastle Coach road Lancaster- Newcastle” with a summary in our 2013 bulletin.

Leaders: Ian and Rita Clark

In a day of relentless rain a group of eight met at the charming and ancient parish church of All Saints between Broughton and Elslack, welcomed by a church warden and another member.  Ian had accumulated considerable historic information about this ancient church, founded in the first half of the 12^th century to serve both Broughton and Elslack.  The early structure used much of the stone of the nearby derelict Roman fort, Burwen Castle on the Roman road from the once busy port of Ribchester to York.  We learned that the village of Elslack suffered much devastation and misery in the 17^th century, during the Civil War, from the aggressive rivalry between the two prominent families of Cliffords of Skipton and Tempests of Broughton.

Due to the excessive rainfall, we spent much time in the church, which provided considerable interesting features including a crusader’s stone coffin lid incorporated in the path near the porch, the double Norman arch inside the porch, the 14^th century chancel roof timbers, two alabaster statues that were found in the churchyard in 1871 (which had probably been thrown out during the reign of Henry VIII),

the memorials to the Tempest family in the Tempest chapel plus 14^th century oak and 15^th century panelling, a headstone mounted on its side within the north wall of the chapel which is considered to have been for a communal grave to commemorate those who were executed following the Pilgrimage of Grace in 1537.  Originally the church was without tower or aisle, and the nave was probably enlarged during the 15^th century.  (Ref. ‘Outstanding Churches in Craven’.)

The hospitality of the church wardens included coffee and homemade biscuits which set us up before donning waterproofs again and driving into Elslack village.  Elslack has always been a farming community and we had hoped to spend relaxed time appreciating interesting houses of earlier centuries and the old Hall with its huge 17^th century barn, but in the soggy conditions we observed but relied on the available notes for the valuable information.  Elslack Hall was a manor house rebuilt in c.16th century, presumably on the site of the original Hall of the 14^th century.  The hall was altered again in the 18^th and 19^th centuries, but a few lancet windows are still visible from the 14^th century building, and evidence of a moat.  Datestones on the hall and the large roadside barn, RB 1672, presumably commemorate the restorations of the hall by Robert Benson.  Robert Benson was the father of the first Lord Bingley who founded Bramham Park.  Robert bought the manor of Elslack in about 1665 from Henry Currer of Gawthorp, and the manor remained with the Benson family until it was purchased by James Fox of Bramham Park in c.1820.  (Ref. John Dixon’s Journeys through Brigantia.)

The nearby site of the Roman fort (80 AD to 370 AD) only reveals turf bumps now but evidence of the Roman road can still be located in sections.  Ian and only two members chose to include an inspection of the site (while the rest of us scuttled into the Tempest Arms for the fireside and a necessary lunch when the group was complete again.)

Words and photos by Phyllida

Content uploaded by Keith P.

On the 22nd August, the group visited Bolton by Bowland which is a lovely village just under 4 miles from Gisburn. A group of 10 of us met at the Church of St Peter & St Paul. There has been a church on this site since about 1190, but the earliest fabric of the church appears to date from the middle of the 13th Century. The Pudsay family name appears through the centuries and has played a significant part in the church’s history. Major rebuilding, under Sir Ralph Pudsay, took place mid 15th Century. There is a Chapel built by Henry Pudsay early in the 16th Century. Sir Ralph Pudsay was married 3 times and had 25 children, all of whom are depicted on a huge stone slab in the Chapel, where all the family crests are also shown. Sir Ralph gave refuge to King Henry VI in Bolton Hall, when Henry VI was fleeing from defeat at the Battle of Hexham in May 1464.

The group then went on to view some of the most interesting houses in the village, starting with Old Court House, 1859. This is most impressive, built mainly in limestone with sandstone dressing and a stone-slate roof. There is an inscribed plaque near a mullioned window. On the roof is a square louvre with a weathervane.

We then walked along Gisburn Road and studied Church Gates, a house probably dating from the late 18th century, and constructed from sandstone with a slate roof. Further along Gisburn Road (5-13) was a row of 5 sandstone houses with slate roof in two storeys. The houses have one or two bays and most of the windows are mullioned.

We turned right into Hellifield Road and looked at several most interesting houses, the prettiest of these being Yew Tree Cottage. This is a pair of sandstone houses, and the original windows are mullioned. This house is a short distance from Yew Tree Farm, which once owned a lot of the land in that area. Hellifield Road is an extremely tranquil area with a beck flowing alongside and many majestic trees.

We proceeded towards the Coach & Horses Inn on Main Road and in that area we stopped to look at Stocks House, which overlooks the stocks on one of the greens. This is an imposing building, the date of which is uncertain, possibly late 19th century, It consists of two sandstone sidepieces with grooves containing modern wooden boards. There is a spring with a tap at the roadside adjoining the house, which is thought to be fed from the hillside.

Our next destination was 9 and 11 Main Street, a pair of stone, whitewashed, houses with a blue slate roof. These are late 17th century houses and No 11 has two mullioned windows, the others being modern. The doorway has a chamfered surround and a Tudor arched head. No 9 to the left has two bays, a central doorway and modern windows. We proceeded to 4 and 5 Main Street which is a row of whitewashed houses built in 1716 with mullioned windows, one of which contains the Post Office and café.

This is where we ended our most pleasant and interesting walk and exploration of Bolton by Bowland which, incidentally, was originally called “Bodeton” meaning bow in the river. We had a delicious tea at the café, consisting of pots of tea or coffee, and scones, cream and jam, baked and served by Tim Hall, who welcomed us and provided typical Lancastrian hospitality. I think we all agreed that Bolton by Bowland is a lovely village and well worth a visit.

Words and pictures by Vivien G.

Content created by Keith P

Salterforth took its name from the FORD that went across the stream that runs through the village and was used by the pack horse trains that carried SALT from The Cheshire mines into Yorkshire.

The village was once more important than it looks to today thanks to the coming of the Leeds and Liverpool Canal in 1816. It played a central part in the transportation of stone from the surrounding quarries that have all now closed. It was interesting to note that the quarries on the Western side of the canal produced Gritstone and on the Eastern side, Limestone. Gritstone was transported to the canal at Salterforth by two tramways, operated by an overhead cable, and most of the stone setts which line the streets of places like Burnley and Accrington were brought from here by horsedrawn canal boats.

At Salterforth the canal bends sharply and rollers can still be seen that prevented the ropes linking barge to horse from coming into contact with the bridge itself. These rollers are around 5ft high.

During the 1^st world war it was decided that two places in Britain would be used for the storage of Cordite explosives. One was in Gloucestershire and other was on Salterforth Moss, between the canal and the Kelbrook/Foulridge road. A network of sidings, connected by rail tracks from the main Skipton to Colne line were built, and Nisson Huts were erected. The site was selected because of its accessibility by rail and the absence of settlement on this almost flat valley floor; it also adjoined the Leeds & Liverpool Canal where the boxes of cordite could be delivered or dispatched by barge. A number of storage huts were constructed on short concrete pillars at various locations within the site, around which was a perimeter fence. The rails are thought to have been lifted by 1929 and the last remains of the storage huts disappeared in the 1950s.

Due to its proximity to the Cordite Store, Foulridge, the village to the South of it, had a Methodist Chapel that gained the curious distinction of being one of the few buildings insured against zeppelin raids.

There were so many religious denominations here, in a small village. They had Quakers/ Inghamites/ Methodists/ Baptists/ and a long lost medieval chapel of ease.

We were able to see the Quaker Meeting House building (now a private house) and were very kindly allowed to go inside the rare Inghamite Chapel, that was one of only two that survived into the 21^st century.  It closed its doors in 2010 and is now privately owned by Blades Funeral Services.

Benjamin Ingham was a charismatic preacher from Ossett. There is still an Inghamite chapel in Ontario, Canada.

The Chapel has an auditorium feel and is steeply banked. The original organ is still in place.

We were able to see Castle House, where Cromwell once stayed and Cobble row, adjacent to it, was the barracks for his men when they were stationed there in 1642 and 1643, when battles took place in nearby Thornton.

The cotton mill that provided employment from 1888 finally closed in 1974, before Silentnight took it over for a few years, but it was good to see that at least half of it remains and is being turned into luxury flats.

At lunch time we made our way to the old Grammar School at Earby, an attractive Elizabethan style house built in the early 1600’s of local sandstone. It was left by the philanthropist clergyman Robert Windle for educational purposes. Initially it was a free grammar school that closed in 1911. Since then it was used for various purposes until the 1970’s when the Earby Mines Research Group took over the building and turned it into a Lead Mining Museum. This closed in 2015, when most of the artifacts were transferred to the Dales Countryside Museum in Hawes. Since then the Grammar School is back in the hands of the Trustees, and monies that are raised from the group cover the cost of repairs to the building and grants to local schools and groups working with children.

We were welcomed by the volunteers there, and enjoyed a lunch of soup, roll and delicious homemade cakes, before being shown around the building by Margaret Brown (trustee), and visiting their charity shop.

Research and words by Frances

Content created by Keith P

Main image courtesy of Farnhill History Group

Early settlers existed on the high moors of Farnhill and Kildwick, which rise sharply above the deep Aire valley, but we pick up the history in about the 14^th century.  A family of de Fernhills had given way to William the Conqueror who had made his dominant presence known and created his Norman barons over broad estates.  The whole area around Skipton was given to Robert de Romille, succeeded by Cecilia and then Alice who granted considerable lands to the newly arrived Augustinian Canons who established their existence at Bolton Priory.  The Priory built Kildwick Grange in the early 14^th century, essentially as a dairy but also for rearing goats.   A group of manors was formed by Geoffrey de Neville in 1303, including Farnhill which made up a Knight’s Fee for feudal services to the Honour of Skipton Castle.  Eventually the manor passed from Margaret de Neville to Roger de Clifford, with the Honour of Skipton, and remained with the family until the death of Lady Anne Clifford in 1676.  The succession was then to the Earls of Cork and finally to the Cavendish family, Dukes of Devonshire.  The medieval Catholic military Order of the Knights Hospitaller also held land in this area, with twenty farms in the Parish of Kildwick in c.1540, and the St. John’s Cross is sometimes found on early property frontages.

Robert Benson, a lawyer and businessman, saw an opportunity between 1660 and his death in 1676 to buy estates of gentry who had fallen into debt after the Civil War.  He acquired several manors including Farnhill.  His son, Robert, inherited these estates.  He was a politician, entered Parliament and received a peerage as Lord Bingley in 1731 – of Bramham Park.  The estates eventually, through marriage, passed to the Lane Fox family.

There was a John de Coplay of Fernhill in the 14^th century whose daughter married an Eltofte, which family built FARNHILL HALL in the 15^th century and remained Lords of the Manor within the Bolton Priory Estates through the 17^th century.  The Hall was a medieval ‘fortified’ tower house with a central open hall, a solar tower wing and a service block.  Small tenanted farms of the manor  managed stock, crops and woodlands with game, the farmsteads clustered within the township of High Farnhill, their outlying fields had barns for storage and to protect animals.  A manorial cornmill existed by the river near High Farnhill allowing tenants to grind their cereal crops, and a new cornmill continued this into the 19^th century, using the waters from Cononley Beck.

A rough and arduous trade route existed from Skipton through Bradley, Farnhill, Kildwick, Keighley and southwards, on the high ground but below the moors.  Farnhill Wood is ancient and still generating, and in the 14^th century Kirk Wood extended from Kildwick to Snaygill and northwest.  These woodlands were an important part of the economy and had to be well managed.   However, farmers were clearing areas of woodland to increase their productive capability.  A drovers route through Farnhill from the high road was down Starkey Lane to cross the river, and the valley was becoming less marshy so was suitable for stock-grazing.  The monks of Bolton Priory were responsible for the building of the original Kildwick Bridge in the early 14^th century, presumably a wooden bridge, to access their lands and tithe corn across the river Aire.

Due to the power of labour shortage in the period 15th-17th centuries, following battles, wars and plagues, local inhabitants progressed from living by subsistence farming to being ‘free’ men, yeomen, profiting from agriculture, mineral working and home-textile production. They could afford to rebuild their homes in stone on the original footings, and Farnhill village developed down the hill to abut Kildwick where is the ancient church.  A beck running down from the moor at Low Farnhill is the boundary with Kildwick, where is the church.  The site of this CHURCH OF ST. ANDREW has been a place of worship for over 1000 years and has had a dramatic history.  Its original presence was Saxon, built on the low edge of woodland, a building heavily oak-timbered and thatched with straw overlaid with turf.  It had a broad, low tower, without a porch.  The church was almost destroyed in 1272 during a Scots’ invasion…the Canons of Bolton Priory lengthened it in the 15^th century by adding a Chancel, and further extensions took place in the 16^th century….the porch was added in the 19^th century.  Numerous Coats of Arms are to be seen within the church including de Romille, Currer, Swire, Eltofte and the Priory of Bolton.  There is also a monument for Robert de Styveton, a Knight Templar of the 14^th century.  West of the church tower is the old school house, built by the Rev. J. Pering, Vicar of Kildwick in 1839.  The 17^th century White Lion inn is also in close proximity to the church, and, with stabling, accommodated regular stage coaches.

The canal opened in 1774 and is actually carried ABOVE the village road. This aided the development of the textile industry, Farnhill having four wool and cotton mills at one time, before fires destroyed two.

A lime kiln was built into the canal embankment to burn lime for mortar to be used in the construction of local mills and housing.  In 1823 the malt kiln closed and was converted into Farnhill’s second textile mill, owned by Aked Brothers.  The former four-storey cotton mill was occupied by Greens, worsted spinners, and Thomas Dennison.  Farnhill also had a small tanning industry with tan pits and sheds on land between the canal and Skipton old road.  This had closed by 1900.

Many older houses were replaced and a row called Middleton was built by the Farnhill Order of Odd Fellows for local workers, and a current cottage used to be the Ship Inn.  In 1875 a third mill, Airedale Mill was built on the opposite side of the canal but burned down in 1905. The terraces of houses built for the millworkers on the township slopes, especially on STARKEY LANE, are looking very smart.

We walked up the ancient flagged footpath beside the beck and by the Glebe field to High Kildwick, just below ancient woodland and the moor, where the OLD VICARAGE is, originally dated early 17^th century.

Over the back door of the vicarage, on a square stone (‘tho very illegible) is a reference to Francis Little, Vicar from 1661-1678.  The house had fallen into disrepair during the Civil War period and was restored.

KILDWICK HALL is an imposing presence to the right, built in 1642 by the Currer family who retained the Hall until the 19^th century when the manorial rights were bought by Sir Matthew Wilson of Eshton Hall.  The Currers were supporters of the Parliamentary forces, some of whom were based at the Hall during the Civil War c.1644. Occupiers of Kildwick Hall changed many times in recent decades.

A little way past the Hall is the PRIEST’S HOUSE, (Prior’s House), dating from the 16^th century, but an earlier house on this site is reputed to have been the dwelling of the canons who came from Bolton Priory to perform the sacrament (a deacon not being allowed to do so.)  There is still much evidence and structure on this high road dating from early centuries, including a roadside stone trough situated well below the current road level!

THE GRANGE, about half a mile further on from the Priests’ house, is now a community of houses but in the late 13^th century was the grange farm of the canons of Bolton Priory.  The present buildings date from the late 16^th century upwards and are impressive.  Roger Coates lived here, a zealous Puritan and staunch supporter of the Commonwealth regime; a member of Parliament in 1653, and local Justice of the Peace.   The family Swire had also been occupants, and between Coates and Swire areas of waste lands and common moor had increased use, with enclosures.

This ancient parish of Farnhill and Kildwick provided another opportunity to recognise and appreciate the centuries of rural progression through agricultural and textile industrial evolution.

Phyllida

Content uploaded by Keith P

This very well known Hall in our immediate area has attracted visitors for many years, for the magnificent gardens but the Hall itself has not been open to the public.  Parcevall Hall is owned and managed by Walsingham College Yorkshire Properties Ltd. and leased to the Diocese of Leeds as a Retreat and for educational conferences.  It was a privilege to be permitted access to the Hall, thanks to the endurance of Sandie Weatherhead.

The sunny day allowed this particularly handsome 17^th century building and its grounds to be seen at their best, and the group were fully appreciative.  Documentary evidence suggests the Hall was built on the site of a 16^th century farm which almost certainly belonged to Bolton Priory.  While we sat around an ancient and long oak table in the dining room, Sandie gave a comprehensive and often humorous historical account of the Hall and its owners, with photos of the progressive maintenance of this old building.  The manor of Appletreewick which included Parcevall farm was purchased by Sir John Yorke of Gouthwaite Hall, Nidderdale.  His son Peter resided at Parcevall which does imply a 1600 date building existed on the current site, but it is uncertain how much of the original structure remains in the present house.

A prosperous yeoman named Christopher Lowson made additions to the house in 1671, and when he died in 1695 the property was occupied by various tenant farmers during much of the 18^th and 19^th centuries.  Richard Boyle, 3^rd Earl of Burlington bought the estate in 1735.  The Yorke family gained ownership again, briefly, in the 19^th century but in 1927 it was purchased by Sir William Milner, Godson of Queen Mary, who was responsible for the additions and restorations that are present in the Hall today.  Sir William and his partner Bernard Craze displayed their creative and artistic abilities in the house and the formation and landscaping of the splendid garden and grounds.

Sir William was a very tall man, 6ft.7in., which necessitated alterations to doorways, and floor levels lowered, so ceilings and doorways are now seen unusually high for a 17^th century property. He was also a quiet and private man, deeply religious, with a romanticism that created many artistic features, and contributed to a garden of rare and interesting plants, many collected from Western China and Tibet. He was aware of a book called The Silent Traveller, written by Chiang Yee, a London-based Chinese scholar with a talent for perceptive observation, who he contacted and their friendship endured until Milner’s death in 1960.

While walking through the interior we appreciated the very atmospheric and comfortable feeling of Elizabethan wealthy living which Sir William Milner maintained. Furnishings, beams, plasterwork, artworks and portraits, flagged ground-floor rooms and the voussoired inglenook fireplace, the window recesses and authentic door and window latches …..all sensitively retaining genuine structure of a 500 year old building, yet allowing modern comforts.

We followed this view of the Hall’s interior by walking up through steep woodland to the restored large barn which was originally built in 1737 for Richard Boyle.  It was called ‘Henry Simpson’s barn’ as he was the Agent for all of the Burlington’s British estates, and there is a plaque above the southwest cart entrance which reads “Mr.HS 1737”.  The barn is set on the hillside above and overlooking the Hall, and the two buildings were linked by a trackway before the Hall was greatly enlarged and the gardens landscaped by Sir William Milner after 1927.  This expansive building of four bays with a side aisle was partially a threshing barn flanked by stores and loose boxes.

The main area was sub-divided internally by a shippon at the south east end, served by two entrances, above which was a hay loft.  A further hay loft was located at the north west end served by a pitching hole in the upper part of the gable end.  Although largely rebuilt and re-roofed, the barn does still reveal the internal stock sections, the stone setts, troughs and high beams, all seen by torchlight only, and very impressive.

The late Dr. Heather Beaumont wrote a comprehensive account of the Hall and history, and concluded, “something of the atmosphere of peace and friendship which obtained in Sir William’s time is perpetuated and shared by the many who now come to the house for rest, relaxation and renewal of body, mind and spirit.”

Visit arranged by Sandie

Words and photos by Phyllida

Content created by Keith P

Local and Regional Societies dedicated to the informed understanding and enjoyment of the Yorkshire Dales, together with Yorkshire Dales National Park Authority, celebrating 70 years of the National Park – founded 1954, present:

Scientist, AUTHOR, Visionary, DALESMAN

A weekend event to recognise a life’s work that today influences our understanding and enjoyment of the Yorkshire Dales and beyond.

Saturday 20 July 2024  09.00 – 17.00 hrs Devonshire Institute, Grassington BD23 5AA

A programme of 8 talks and discussion on the life and work of Arthur Raistrick (including speakers who knew and worked with him):

Sunday 21 July 2024

Geology (further education, palynology, glacial geomorphology);    Social and Industrial Welfare;
Industrial Archaeology;   History and Legacy of Lead Mining;   Landscape History;  Countryside access; Chronicler and author of Life in the Dales;    Leading Advocate for the National Park

A programme of 6-8 guided excursions in the Settle-Grassington-Greenhow , area of the southern Dales – including a visit to a lead mine, and walks covering glacial landforms, lead mining heritage, landscape evolution and the archaeology and development of settlements

REGISTRATION:  prior registration is essential.  A £10.00 registration fee will be charged, to include a programme of abstracts and excursion summaries; light refreshments free of charge will be provided throughout the Saturday programme.

Further details are posted on a dedicated area of the website of the Yorkshire Geological Society: www.yorksgeolsoc.org.uk

This site will host the registration process through Eventbrite; registration is open from the beginning of May 2024.  Check this website for details of the talks and excursions and additional information on parking, lunch facilities (packed lunches may be consumed on the premises) and other guidance.

An important point about this village is that it has had a Lord of the Manor continuously since 1558.  The Assheton family at that time superseded the Dyneley family who had held the manor through the medieval centuries, with land held by Sawley and Whalley Abbeys.

The peerage of Ralph Assheton in 1955 established a succession of Lords Clitheroe who continue to own a large farming estate here, and historically still collect the rents twice a year at the Assheton Arms pub.  The family have constantly taken great care of this manor, its villagers and tenants, and maintain all that is necessary for the village wellbeing. In the 1800s the Asshetons undertook a great rebuilding and improving programme of village cottages and farms, much of the rebuilding retained on original sites.

There are no pylons or telegraph posts or overhead cables – they are all underground, and this is one of the first communities to have made this improvement – even the telephone box is a subdued grey rather than eye-catching red.

Agriculture has always been prevalent on this landscape of light soil overlying limestone, allowing good cattle-grazing.  The ancient breed of White Park cattle (with their velvety black ears, noses and feet) dominated for hundreds of years before being superseded.  The Asshetons apparently acquired a herd from Whalley Abbey at the Dissolution in about 1540 and they roamed in managed freedom over the estates of this manor and the neighbouring manor of Gisburn Park (Lister family).

Two ancient routes passed through here, one from Ribchester to Ilkley which was created by the Romans, and one known to be even earlier.  There is evidence of a village here before the Norman Conquest and drovers and traders, including medieval monastic of course, created the busy-ness of this community.  For centuries they traded fleeces for handwoven cloth, and milled cereal, and the marketing of cattle.   When the textile industry took off in the 18th/19th centuries the local weavers had to give way to the development of large industrial mills in nearby cities and many moved out to those cities where there was more reliable work and better income.  Meanwhile agriculture remained an important part of the economy – to this day.

The church of St. Leonard is considered to have been on this same site for over thousand years, with evidence of Saxon and early Norman foundations.  A chapel existed here before the foundation of Whalley Abbey and served many nearby townships and hamlets. The tower is 15^th century but the church has had successive restorations and rebuilds over the centuries.  Situated at the top of the hill, the view from the porch overlooking the village and across the lush valley to Pendle Hill is breathtaking.  

Downham Hall, the home of the Assheton family, was rebuilt in 1830s on its 16^th century foundations, and with a large stables and coach-house block on the northside.  Extensive gardens with long established trees and colourful shrubs are behind old walls, and an immaculate and expansive walled kitchen garden can be viewed below the church.

There are of course contrasting eras of architectural structure in the village, from 1580 upwards, the detail and features of earlier buildings being of particular interest to the group.  Although the interiors of 17^th century buildings must have been quite dark, the detailed windows and the work of skilled stonemasons on these structures still survives.

Considered to have been an Anglian village it was however difficult to identify what would have been a typical back lane, especially as the village layout has changed over the centuries, but the reliable old beck at the foot of Downham keeps running on its course through the valley.

The Field Society History Group had an excellent day which was well researched by Marion.

Words and pictures by Phyllida

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