MONASTIC ARNCLIFFE

The Group returned to Arncliffe on Thursday, 28^th May, to reflect on the influence in the community of the occupation of Fountains Abbey’s Cistercian monks in the 13th-16th centuries.  Following an introduction to set the scene and explain the background, and viewing Old Cote across the river, we walked from St. Oswald’s Church to Botany Lane which continued as the Monks Road to Malham.  A view point from Botany House showed the broad landscape of worked farmland, and also the remains of the millpond for the 14^th century cornmill.  There was much discussion on stonework evidence of the early mill, a sluice, and the overgrown leat from the millpond when we walked on Brootes Lane beside Cowside Beck.  Brootes Lane was the ancient route to Darnbrook, another of Fountains Abbey granges, and on to Great Close and Malham.  Overall we needed to use our imagination and absorb the atmospheric landscape to try and understand life here in monastic times.

Arncliffe at that time was a settlement of the Anglians who founded the village and named it.  They were modest farmers, providing for their families in their wood and thatch homes, and making ingenious use of the landscape.  It was the Anglians who created the terraced cultivation (lynchets) on the fell slopes and a rotation system, the valley floor being too marshy for crops at that time but suitable for livestock grazing.  Domestic animals would be kept close to their homes, and the extensive but not dense woodland would provide fodder for the pigs.  Fruit trees, herbs and wayside plants, and bees were also valuable resources……….a simple but often harsh existence.

Where the church of St. Oswalds stands, spiritually important beside the running river Skirfare, was almost certainly an Anglian place of worship before the original church was built in 1100 AD.  The de Arches family (later known as Darcy) were Lords of the Manor of Arncliffe then, apportioned by William de Percy who had been granted huge areas of Northumberland and Yorkshire by King William.  Following the Domesday Survey of 1086 Percy enclosed the whole area of Littondale Forest for hunting and cultivation.  The ‘forest’ was actually a landscape of scrub trees with mostly ash and hazel.

Then in came the Cistercian monks of Fountains Abbey.  Monasteries existed much earlier in England, from about the 5^th century, with educated monks who could read and write and create magnificently illustrated manuscripts of learning, but they were almost entirely enclosed Orders, confined within the Abbeys.  But when the monastic Orders from France followed King William and established their Abbeys they were not only educated but were industrious and understood economics, and integrated with communities.

Fountains Abbey was founded in 1132 and soon was expanding its estate and establishing a workforce of lay brothers from the peasant communities who vowed to keep to monastic rules.  The monks realised the value of sheep and their fleeces in this northern region, and as they acquired their land, established outlying granges, they developed a huge industry in sheep farming.  English wool was in great demand in the 13^th century, and sales to the continent of surplus supplies brought high profits.  The habits worn by the monks were of low quality wool, the ‘choir’ monks in fleece-white habits, the lay brothers in brown habits, and animal skins were also worn in winter months.

In 1175, before monks arrived in Arncliffe, the manor of Hawkswick was held by William de Mauleverer who granted some land to Fountains Abbey and access over bridges on the rivers Skirfare and Wharfe, which the Abbey was required to maintain.  Later, Thurstin de Arches bought all the remaining estate of Mauleverer and granted the entirety to the Abbey, which extensively increased their land-holding.  (Substantial earthworks around Arncliffe Cote and Hawkswick Cote have been investigated by archaeologists which appear to be medieval and likely related to monastic occupation.)  About forty grants of land were actually made relating to Arncliffe and the Abbey, in exchange for prayerful monks to consider these benefactors as worthy of God’s pleasure, for the salvation of their souls.  Grants gave right of tenure and the income from the land, but not absolute ownership as the land was returned to the King or family control later.

Presumably the settled Anglians retained their dwellings and much of their life in their village when the monks began to establish their presence, but they became tenant farmers of the Abbey and had to comply with the productive management of sheep.  A monastic grange complex was established, at Old Cote.  In fact, the current 17^th century building is on the footings of the grange, and it is thought that there is evidence of the original building behind Old Cote.

Grange buildings were highly functional agricultural complexes.  The buildings were frequently combined under a single roof, including shared dormitories for lay brothers, basic kitchens and secure storage for farm tools, harvested grain and animal fodder.  There would need to be adjacent folds, byres and stables for livestock.  The brothers slept on straw mattresses covered with single blankets or animal skins.  They were better fed than ‘choir’ monks because of their hard and long labour, from daybreak to dusk, disciplined, often solitary workers and required to allow prayer-times in each day.

The number of lay brothers necessary at a lesser grange like Arncliffe would be about ten, with a grangemaster in charge, managing wool production from probably 300-400 sheep.  Neighbouring Kilnsey was a more prominent grange, with its own chapel, and up to twenty brothers.

(Fountains Abbey, at the height of its prosperity, would have had 800 lay brothers, most of them allocated to outlying granges……..until the depopulation from the Black Death plague in the 14^th century when surviving PEASANTS became more valuable workers.)

Lay brothers at Arncliffe were responsible for rearing sheep for the best quality wool, shearing, dipping, treating the fleeces against parasites with a kind of ‘tar’, and cultivating land for produce for their community and for the livestock.  In the more marshy pasture hemp (ditchweed) would be grown as this fibre was harvested and prepared to use as twine and making sacking for the fleeces. Stock was seasonally moved to trading areas, mostly at Great Close, Malham, using the established tracks, lanes.

Monks travelled on foot frequently to and from the Abbey, across the open moors on well-trodden routes, but more substantial tracks on lower levels were necessary for oxen-driven carts carrying heavy goods, and for moving livestock.

Fountains Abbey had secured most of Littondale, all Malham Moor and much of Malham, and all Bordley.  At the Dissolution of the monasteries in 1539 these lands were returned to the Crown. Through the Augmentations Office, many of the lands were sold as large areas, either to local lords or to local families who may have been holders under the monasteries.  Much of Littondale land was sold initially to Sir Richard Gresham and on to the Cliffords of Skipton Castle.  Sheep farming continued as a prosperous industry, and the huge wool and textile milling industry developed………

Phyllida Oates

Sources of reference:

Upper Nidderdale Landscape Partnership

Nidderdale History Group: ‘History of Nidderdale’

Arthur Raistrick: ‘Old Yorkshire Dales’

Sonia Wilkinson: ‘Kilnsey, a Dales Township’

Numerous websites

28^th May 2026

 A group of eight set off on the annual visit to Rodley Nature Reserve on the floodplains of the River Aire on the edge of Leeds. The journey was in an unexpected flash thunderstorm with torrential rain and large hailstones clattering on the car roof. Luckily it cleared nicely on arrival.

We were immediately greeted by the familiar call of a song thrush which was hard to spot in the thick foliage of the trees and shrubs. We were reminded that it was going to be one of those days when more birds would be heard than seen. On the way to the riverside and wetlands the group saw or heard an array of resident and migrant birds including Goldfinches, Greenfinches, Blackbird, Robin, Wren, Dunnock, Willow Warbler, Chiffchaff, Blackcap and Sedge Warbler. As it got hotter damselflies, Small Whites, Orange-tips, Painted Lady and Peacocks fluttered around. The metallic blue body and black bands on the wings of a male Banded Demoiselle and the shiny green body of a female looked stunning in the sunlight.  A Red kite circled over the Scrub followed by a Buzzard being mobbed by a corvid. At this point the group decided to settle at the picnic benches by the river for a mid morning coffee break and was treated to the display flight and song of a Whitethroat which is always a delight. From the hide overlooking the wetland, Little egrets, Herons, Oystercatchers and Lapwings were seen and Cetties, Reed Warbler and Reed Bunting were heard. The quick torpedo flight of a Kingfisher going over the hide with a flash of blue as it disappeared into the reedbeds caused a bit of excitement. 

We ate lunch in the cool comfort of the visitor centre while watching the display screens showing live coverage of five Barn Owl and four Kestrel chicks. After lunch more wetland species Moorhen, Tufted Duck, Coot, Mallard, Mute Swan with six cygnets, Gadwall were seen. Disappointingly the Little and Great-crested Grebes remained elusive! Sand Martins, Swallows and Swifts swooped around us catching insects and the bright green of a Ring-necked Parakeet flashed by. 43 three species in all were seen .

 An enjoyable day!

Report by Pragna Unia

Only four members of the bird group were able to come to the day’s very pleasant outing to a nature reserve just south of York. As soon as we stepped out of the car we were surrounded by glorious birdsong, much of which was being delivered by warblers – Willow, Garden, Sedge, Reed, and Cetti’s warblers, Blackcap, Whitethroat, and Chiffchaff.  Reed Buntings, Song Thrush, Robins, Blackbirds, and Skylarks, also made lovely contributions throughout the day.

A male Marsh Harrier gave us several very nice sightings, as well as both Little Egret and the Great White. There were a number of Herons, along with a few species of ducks on the pools, and a sedate pair of Mute Swans with cygnets.

Although we prepared for rain, there were only a couple of light showers when we were luckily in hides.

A peaceful and quiet reserve, apart from the sound of the birds!

We saw 43 species.

Report: Clare Dunn

On Thursday 23rd April 13 members of the group met at Bolton Hall, which was original gatehouse of Bolton Priory. The c.14 building was converted into a hunting lodge in 1652 and was owned by the Dukes of Devonshire since 1748 when the 4th Duke, William Cavendish married Lady Charlotte Boyle a descendant of the Cliffords.  In 1840/44 the 6th Duke employed Sir Joseph Paxton to undertake extensive work to the gatehouse, as well as work at Chatsworth.  Paxton was responsible for the building of Crystal Palace.

Peter Smith, the gardener employed by the estate since 1976 showed us the egg shaped ice house.  Peter then took us to the kitchen garden built in 1717 and which hehas completely rejuvenated over the past 20 years.  He introduced a water supply from a stream off the moor into a dipping pond which he utilised on the beds and borders and the surplus is diverted back into the stream below.

The garden was looking very springlike with a multitude of colourful tulips and a fascinating chocolate vine (Ankebia Quinata white chocolate)climbing over arches, which took everyone’s fancy.

We took a look at the workshop, tool store and former dog kennels, before returning to the gatehouse to welcome cakes and drinks.  We viewed the adjacent drawing room with many family portraits and exquisite furniture and finally enjoyed the lovely garden round the hall.

A group of 6 members met at Leighton Moss and the weather was perfect for a springtime day out birdwatching, with blue skies and sunshine, although quite a stiff breeze from the sea.

High tide would be at 11.30am, so we arrived firstly at the Allen Hide a little before high tide, viewing an abundant number of waders and gulls crowded onto the islands and the grassy edges of the water, waiting for the tide to begin its retreat.

Our walk along the path towards the Allen Hide bordered by shrubs and trees rewarded us with the song of a Wren, heard clearly but not seen. Also, good sightings of Robin and Cetti’s Warbler, both singing loudly.

Once inside the Hide, the multitude of birds across the water was amazing. Black-headed Gulls, a huge number of Redshank, a real treat to see so many together, mostly gathered on the islands and patches of grass at the water’s edge, occasionally rising up and taking flight altogether before quickly settling back to earth. Other great sightings were Oystercatcher, Black-tailed Godwits, Avocet, Little Egret, Shelduck, Great Black-backed Gull, Gadwall, Shoveler, Dunlin, Pochard, Wigeon and Mute Swan.

Leaving the Allen Hide to walk on to The Morecambe Hide, we enjoyed sightings of Greenfinch, Goldfinch, Woodpigeon, Carrion Crow, Jackdaw, Skylark and Chaffinch. Also, hearing the song of Reed Warbler and Reed Bunting, but not seen.  Inside The Morecambe Hide the views over Morecambe bay and our previous view point presented many of our earlier sightings.

Next, we made the short drive to Warton Sands Nature Reserve, an interesting landscape with evidence of past industry and now returned to nature, a haven for birdlife. A good footpath following the riverside running towards Morecambe bay presented so many sightings, Swallows, House Sparrow, Feral Pigeon, Goldfinch, Skylarks gathering nest material, Grey Heron, Pied Wagtail, Lapwing, Mallard, Goosander, Lesser Black-backed Gull, Curlew, Sandpiper, Ringed Plover, Linnet and Wheatear.

Also, a huge crowd of Redshank and multitude of other waders all busy running around and feeding as the tide ebbed away revealing the sand and mud rich in nourishment.  Many of these waders we had seen earlier in our outing.

On our return walk to the car park, we saw Greylag and Canada geese.

39 sightings + 4 heard but not seen.

A great day out.

Judith Goodings