A Study of

THE INFLUENCE OF THE YORKE FAMILY OF BEWERLEY

Someone was carefully tending the small flower beds beside the Bewerley Grange Chapel when our group arrived.  While we appreciated the atmosphere of this ancient chapel, Sandie disclosed its story and pointed out significant features which particularly related to Abbot Marmaduke Huby of Fountains Abbey in the late 14^th century.  Following this we progressed with the Yorke family……

Bewerley is mentioned in the Domesday Book when it was part of the estates of Gospatric, Earl of Northumbria.  After the Conquest the estates passed to the Mowbray family, and in 1175 Roger de Mowbray sold the estate to Fountains Abbey, which established a grange in Bewerley, with a chapel built by Abbot Marmaduke Huby in the 15^th century.  The Abbot’s House on Glasshouses road was built by Father Hicks in the late 16th/early 17^th century, which became Bewerley Old Hall, known as Tudor House later, and eventually was the Yorke family’s gardener’s house. ( As Tudor House its structure did contain many interesting 16th/17th century features, and a typical Elizabethan ‘knot garden’.)   After the Dissolution of the Monasteries the ownership of Bewerley was fragmented, but in 1674 the manor of Bewerley and some land was acquired by the Yorke family and remained with them until 1924.  The Marmaduke Huby chapel was used as a school, and possibly for holding illicit masses by the Catholic Yorkes.  By the 18^th century the family replaced the Chapel school with a new school at Bridgehouse Gate for Pateley Bridge children, mainly boys at that time.

The Yorke family had long been influential in York in the 15^th Century, with Sir Richard as Lord Mayor, M.P in Parliament, and highly acclaimed in the wool trade.  Successively, Sir John Yorke, his grandson, Member of Parliament for Richmond in 1661, was the builder of Gouthwaite Hall.

In Nidderdale the Yorke family were content to manage their growing estate, with tenanted farms, quarrying and mineral rights, and an inclination towards the sporting life, an estate which extended over 16,000 acres.  They originally lived in Middlesmoor and acquired the dalehead areas of the Stonebecks and the manor of Ramsgill, (and Appletreewick in Wharfedale.)  By the 18^th century the Yorke family were the largest landowners in Nidderdale.  Farming tenants were also miners for five or six hours a day, and women were involved in the growing textile industry by home spinning of flax and weaving linen.  Generations of the family endeavoured to sustain the wellbeing of the land, the tenants, and the many local trades, all of which developed the influence of the Yorkes.

It was important to make good marriages, to sustain the security of estates, and the Yorke family made such connections including Ingleby of Ripley, Lister, Darcy, Assheton, but most significantly Norton.  Sir John Yorke of Gouthwaite Hall married Mary Norton, an heiress who added Bewerley to the Yorke estate by outright purchase in 1674.  Gouthwaite Hall had to be demolished when Bradford needed to build a reservoir which flooded all that area…..the area chosen particularly due to the existence already of a post-glacial moraine.

Bewerley OLD Hall in 1674 was an Elizabethan house where the Yorkes lived until they built their NEW Hall in 1821 which became a castellated mansion in the Scottish style, with turrets and tower……. (there was continuous one-up-manship with the prominent Nidderdale family of Metcalfe who built their impressive Castlestead mansion, on land bought from John Yorke.

While maintaining the working land, the Yorke family was increasingly involved in developing the value of landscape for pleasure and made a major impact on the landscape around Bewerley.  In the 18^th century John Yorke became involved with the “English Landscape Movement”, which was associated with Capability Brown.  Yorkes Folly was built high on Guisecliffe around 1740 at a time of depression, bad weather and general unemployment, which gave paid employment for impoverished local craftsmen and farmhands.  (The depression developed through structural shifts in society driven by the Agricultural Revolution.  Landowners were enclosing common lands; there was a rapid population growth which outpaced traditional jobs; and early industrial machinery was replacing manual handcrafts.  All this transition moved workers from stable rural routines into volatile economic unsettlement.)

The ancient and lush woodlands of Guisecliffe and Shrikes, sweeping steeply down into the Nidd valley and created over centuries amongst massive Brimham-type rocks, were nurtured as part of the Yorke pleasure-giving estate.  The smaller Fishpond wood was also long established, and the pond is believed to have monastic origins, providing fish for their larder.  The Yorkes introduced specimen trees here and enlarged the pond by connecting nearby streams.  Extensive pleasure gardens and grounds were developed around the Hall, which provided local employment –  all were maintained for a lasting effect on the local landscape, sustaining natural life and benefiting all people.  It is still a well-used woodland, carefully maintained, and an environment appreciated by groups of children studying natural science.

In Fishpond wood, the ice house was certainly built by the Yorkes, and has been well restored. Such buildings were commonly used by country house kitchens before refrigeration.  Ice houses were built of thick brick, stone and wood walls, combining heavy insulation of bracken, straw, wood shavings with winter-harvested ice packed into the deep cone-shaped ice chamber.  Winter ice was taken from rivers, lakes and ponds, and could remain frozen in the ice house for months and keep the stored food fresh in the adjoining chamber.

Although the Yorke family continued to expand their nearby estate through the 1800s, they did need to sell parts of their outlying land holdings while they heavily invested in their property and maintained their pleasure landscaping.  BUT expenses became overwhelming and, when the last squire of Bewerley Hall, Thomas Edward, died in 1924 the Hall and lands were sold to pay extensive estate duties.  The final downfall was after the First World War, with heavy taxation and postwar economic pressures.  Bewerley Hall was demolished a year later – the succeeding family moved to their other established estate at Halton Place in Halton West, Ribblesdale.  We were however able to view the old stable block and laundry block, now converted into private residences.

Phyllida Oates

Much is known of the Yorke family because of a considerable number of documents carefully collated by the wife of Major J.E.E. Yorke, in Halton Place, Ribblesdale, in the mid-20th century.

Other sources of information are from relevant websites and “A History of Nidderdale”.

Further to a previous study of Rylstone, Peter progressed to neighbouring Fleets, where the group met.  Fleets is the narrowest part of the complicated parish of Rylstone which has nine bordering parishes, on the watershed between the valleys of the Wharfe and Aire.  Early settlers established in the valley but succeeding colonisers such as the Norsemen preferred higher land of the area which in all became the parish of Rylstone.  Fleets was probably given its name by Norsemen, meaning “island of dry in a marshy place”.

We were welcomed at Higher Fleets house by Bill Haigh, and Sheila Stoney of The Rylstone Project.  Bill gave the group an absorbing account of Fleets history, how the area emerged in farming, families, the draining of marshland, and the ancient routes to the important monastic grange in Bordley and across Boss Moor.   Higher Fleets house was a 17^th century yeoman’s farmhouse inclusive of barn, hayloft and kennels, with typical external features.  Internally we were shown the interesting ground floor layout, stone fireplaces and original beams.

Early records of Fleets indicate the existence of various cottages and farmsteads, well dispersed on the higher ground where Sunhill and Higher Fleets are now situated, remote from Rylstone but still contributing to the economy of the parish.  Lower land was still too marshy for cultivation. Buildings would have been single-storey timber, possibly with cruck trusses, later rebuilt in stone. The first map to indicate Fleets is Jeffrey’s map circa 1771 which shows two lanes leading north out of Hetton, one to Skirethornes over the top of Swinden Hill (not yet quarried) and the other direct to High Cow House (no reservoir yet).  The current Fleets Lane did not exist until the later Greenwood map of 1818.

The Parish register at St. Peter’s church in Rylstone records the baptism of Alice Moorhouse of Fleets in 1572, and many records exist of the Moorhouse family in following years, probably farming and improving land from medieval times.  Over the period from about 1645 to 1705 other registered families in Fleets were the Knowles, Westwoods, Gregsons and Kitchings, the main occupations being landowner, yeoman, or tenant farmer.  There were coalminers too such as Hardie, Bayle and Harrison, probably working the coal pits on Boss Moor and eventually living more comfortably in Fleets.  Other inhabitants of the community were involved in textiles, weavers, a hatter and a shoemaker.

The Moorhouse family was relatively wealthy and may have occupied the main building, “Fleets”, now known as Higher Fleets and which was rebuilt in stone by the Kitchings family around 1660.  Kitching was a yeoman farmer with Quaker contacts and had the capability to improve the building. William Maude was the successor of Fleets farm in 1832, 111 acres, and he and his family expanded and improved the acreage over the next ten to twenty years.  He bought Sunhill farm, another 132 acres, and parcels of land east and west, thereby increasing his estate to about 500 acres.

William Maude originally lived in (Higher)Fleets but then succeeded Richard Waddilove (Squire of Rylstone in Rylstone Hall) and became Squire around 1850.  William’s son, Abraham, took over the running of the estate with tenant farmers at Fleets and Sunhill.  Extensive civil engineering works were carried out over the Maude estate.  Further down from Higher Fleets, Abraham erected symmetrical buildings around a courtyard and built a south-facing Georgian-style residence       with a ha-ha and garden.  Castellated walls were constructed around the property and included cast-iron gates off Fleets Lane, providing a sweeping entrance to what became known as “Fleets” or “The House”.  Fleets Beck was culverted under the courtyard, and the marshes south of the house were reclaimed with an impressive system of drains and channels, all eventually draining into the River Aire.  Numerous trees were planted, particularly beech, which have matured successfully. Very sadly Abraham’s two grandsons were killed in the first World War, so when Abraham and his son died there was no male heir to the estate.

After viewing these two properties we walked up to Sunhill Farm.  The area had been used for stock-holding on this previously working farm, later owned by the Tiplady family.  A long barn was built in 1710 with high-arched accesses, and this is still an impressive building but now converted into several residential apartments.

The title picture shows the view from Fleets Lane to the boundary between Rylstone and Cracoe.

We did plan to go on to the ancient Chapel Lane between those two places to see the “Plague Stone” or “Cross” on that boundary, but the weather was closing in.  An image of the stone is with this report though, from a previous visit.  Legend has it that it was the site of a (monastic?) cross, or connected with the 1665 plague which affected folk of Rylstone.  Vinegar may have been placed in the stone’s bowl by Cracoe folk, and food under the stone, in exchange for money left in the stone (?).

We did greatly appreciate this understanding of Rylstone’s northerly section, Fleets, …… and the generous tea presented to us in Bill’s farmhouse when chattery questions and answers continued before we departed.

Report and photos by Phyllida Oates

With thanks to:

Bill Haigh, and his booklet

Sheila Stoney (Rylstone History Project)

The weather was a big let down on the visit to this new site for our Bird Group. We managed to choose the first really wet day for some weeks  so a coffee break in cars or cafe was extended to nearly lunch time!

Glasson Dock is at the end of the Lancaster canal where it enters the Lune estuary and the Glasson Marina and is still a small working dock. There are several information boards explaining the history and nature of the area, a smokehouse, a good car park toilets and cafe so all needs provided for even in the rain.

Sadly, the thing missing was birds! Only Mallard in eclipse were on the marina, Black-headed Gulls in the empty dock, one Black-backed Gull and an occasional Heron looking very wet and sorry for itself.

We had arrived at low tide so there were plenty of birds on the Lune estuary, but a bit far away and too wet for the telescope, though recognisable as Redshank Lapwing and more Gulls with the occasional Cormorant.

It was too wet to take the 20-minute walk along the estuary side to Conder Green so we drove round instead. Here we walked onto the bridge over the Lune end, but it was pretty full of rain water after the heavy showers so only a few Redshank and Oystercatchers. On the hot sunny recce, the muddy base of the Lune was full of birds hunting the food at a similar state of tide.

Only about 20 species were seen on a dispiriting visit, but it has wetted our appetite for a repeat visit when more Ducks and Waders have returned from their Summer trips. However, it is a fascinating area to visit whatever your interest but do check tide times, previously I have been held up on the road waiting for the Spring tide to retreat and allow passage!

Josephine Drake

Frances and Marion compiled a ‘journey’ in Settle, with appreciation of past social history in this ancient township on a long-established east/west route for trade and travellers.  So many buildings and structural features of centuries past have retained their external appearance, especially from the great rebuild of the 17^th century, although of course much modern improvement developed internally.  Documentary evidence exists however of much earlier build and occupations.

The old market was granted by Henry III in 1249, ideally placed with well used links to all surrounding areas.  Service industries, retailers, craftsmen and women helped develop a growing economy, in addition to the already established agricultural importance.  By the end of the 18^th century there were dressmakers, tanners, boot and shoemakers, millwrights, tallow chandlers, and cotton manufacturers.  Inevitably innkeepers and licensed victuallers generally thrived, and essential professions established in the 19^th century – banks, legal services, medics and schools.

Some of the larger commercial buildings in the town were built by Quaker business families.  In the mid-17th century preachers came to Settle, to be attacked by some and listened to by others who later formed the first group of the Society of Friends in the town.

Non-conformity continued in Settle, with Methodism which was first preached in 1743, by Benjamin Ingham.  Others followed, which resulted in a room being rented in Kirkgate in 1771. John Wesley preached here in 1784, and a parcel of land was purchased “whereon stood a chapel” in Chapel Lane, replaced by the grander Bethesda Chapel in 1810, with a Sunday School in a rented room in The Folly.  In the later 1800s land with a cottage and a former smithy was bought on Chapel Square where a schoolroom was built in 1881 and used until 1930 when it was bought by Freemasons.  Primitive Methodism also established a chapel, Ebenezer Chapel, with the belief that the original Methodism was not being fully adhered to.  This site was then occupied by the Parish Church but it is now a private house.  A Zion Chapel was also built, in 1816, at one of the highest points in the town – Zion was an Old Testament hilltop fortress captured by King David and was the oldest part of the city of Jerusalem.  A group based in the industrial West Riding known as The Itinerants endeavoured to strengthen churches in rural areas.  Their stirring preaching drew great crowds in Settle and raised funds, and, together with a further donation from the Itinerant Society, and Zion Chapel was erected on land purchased from John Birkbeck.  Various ministers tended the chapel, and members contributed in many ways to the life of the community, but the chapel closed in 2015.  Settle’s Parish Church of the Holy Ascension was consecrated in 1838, built in the Early English style, with a wide nave and a polygonal bell tower, topped with a spire.

A canal was proposed to be built in 1773 to link with the Leeds and Liverpool canal to carry stone out and coal into Craven, but local landowners objected sufficiently to prevent the project.  We did locate, however, the building named Liverpool House.

In the early 19^th century railway companies built their own tracks and charged other companies to run on them.  The Midland Railway requested that its goods and passengers be carried by the London & North Western from Ingleton to Carlisle and Scotland, the station being in Giggleswick. The Midland Railway then built a new line in 1865 (the Settle to Carlisle line) which needed an Act of Parliament.  It took seven years to complete due to the difficulty of the terrain.

By the early 19^th century, and with the development of the textile industry, Settle had five mills where wool was being spun by machine.  Three of these, Runley, Bridge End, and King’s Mill in Lower Settle were originally corn mills.  Dog Kennel Mill and Brennands weaving shed were in Upper Settle.  Snuff Mill in Lower Settle followed Kendal, which by the early 19^th century was the leading snuff producer in Britain.  Tobacco was brought into the western ports of Whitehaven, Workington and Maryport.  Snuff Mill was rebuilt in 1830 after a fire and became known as King’s Mill, spinning cotton.

A great local character of Settle was Thomas (Tot) Lord, a prominent figure in the town and known to all.   He was a greengrocer’s son, served in the Great War and, on returning, he started buying and selling.  He was also a keen explorer of the abundant caves in the area and became a founder member of the Cave Rescue Organisation in 1935.  His caves venture, most notably in Victoria and Attermire led to the discovery of a wealth of ancient material.  Tot Lord bought Townhead in 1948, a dilapidated mansion overlooking Settle, and turned the ground floor into a museum which included the bones of exotic animals such as hyena, elephant, rhinoceros and hippopotamus.  Townhead and Pig Yard Museum no longer exist, but Tot Lord’s memory definitely lives on.

Our group was led through so much of Settle’s history, identifying feature buildings, into narrow alleys with interesting buildings huddled closely as in Bishopdale Court, viewing dominant Marshfield House with extensive gardens, courtyard and stabling, built c.1750 for Thomas Salisbury – the area now divided into flats.  Many earlier inns have been re-established as other businesses or homes, but some are still functioning, such as the Talbot Arms and the Golden Lion.  Where the Town Hall now stands was a tollbooth with a nightwatchman’s room and town lock-up, but in 1832 this architecturally impressive Town Hall was built, believed to be in the French style.  The Shambles in the Square was originally an open market with barrel-vaulted cellars in c.1675.  It was enclosed later that century and the arches added.  Workshops and a slaughterhouse were in the basement, shops on the ground floor, single-storey dwellings above.  In 1898 the 17^th century dwellings were rebuilt and a second storey added by the Settle Market Buildings Company. The numerous gantries of early warehouses still exist but often have been converted into windows.  We noted Dr. Buck’s house in the Square, where his great friend Edward Elgar visited regularly.

Many prominent buildings belonged to the town’s prominent Quakers, such as Birkbeck and Sutcliffe.  The Friends’ Meeting House was an interesting inclusion in our visit, with a datestone of 1678.   The Quakers acquired a piece of land in 1661 for a peppercorn rent for use as a burial place and followed that with a Meeting House and stables.  It was a simple single-storey building but the roof was raised and a second storey added later.  The burial ground has been made into a charming and simply natural garden, the gravestones moved to the rear wall, all set in alphabetical order.  In 1860 five enthusiastic Friends were inspired by the Adult Schools Movement and a schoolhouse was built, with additions later, and women’s classes began.  During the second World War the buildings were fitted out to house evacuees.  The Adult School was eventually turned into Garth House and some of the rooms made into hostel accommodation for Friends.  Now it is used by a wide range of organisations and groups (many non-Quaker).

It was a hot sunny day so we ambled slowly through so much of Settle’s long, immensely busy history, realising how little we had known of our near neighbour.

Preparation done by Frances and Marion.

Report and photos by Phyllida.