MONASTIC ARNCLIFFE

The Group returned to Arncliffe on Thursday, 28^th May, to reflect on the influence in the community of the occupation of Fountains Abbey’s Cistercian monks in the 13th-16th centuries.  Following an introduction to set the scene and explain the background, and viewing Old Cote across the river, we walked from St. Oswald’s Church to Botany Lane which continued as the Monks Road to Malham.  A view point from Botany House showed the broad landscape of worked farmland, and also the remains of the millpond for the 14^th century cornmill.  There was much discussion on stonework evidence of the early mill, a sluice, and the overgrown leat from the millpond when we walked on Brootes Lane beside Cowside Beck.  Brootes Lane was the ancient route to Darnbrook, another of Fountains Abbey granges, and on to Great Close and Malham.  Overall we needed to use our imagination and absorb the atmospheric landscape to try and understand life here in monastic times.

Arncliffe at that time was a settlement of the Anglians who founded the village and named it.  They were modest farmers, providing for their families in their wood and thatch homes, and making ingenious use of the landscape.  It was the Anglians who created the terraced cultivation (lynchets) on the fell slopes and a rotation system, the valley floor being too marshy for crops at that time but suitable for livestock grazing.  Domestic animals would be kept close to their homes, and the extensive but not dense woodland would provide fodder for the pigs.  Fruit trees, herbs and wayside plants, and bees were also valuable resources……….a simple but often harsh existence.

Where the church of St. Oswalds stands, spiritually important beside the running river Skirfare, was almost certainly an Anglian place of worship before the original church was built in 1100 AD.  The de Arches family (later known as Darcy) were Lords of the Manor of Arncliffe then, apportioned by William de Percy who had been granted huge areas of Northumberland and Yorkshire by King William.  Following the Domesday Survey of 1086 Percy enclosed the whole area of Littondale Forest for hunting and cultivation.  The ‘forest’ was actually a landscape of scrub trees with mostly ash and hazel.

Then in came the Cistercian monks of Fountains Abbey.  Monasteries existed much earlier in England, from about the 5^th century, with educated monks who could read and write and create magnificently illustrated manuscripts of learning, but they were almost entirely enclosed Orders, confined within the Abbeys.  But when the monastic Orders from France followed King William and established their Abbeys they were not only educated but were industrious and understood economics, and integrated with communities.

Fountains Abbey was founded in 1132 and soon was expanding its estate and establishing a workforce of lay brothers from the peasant communities who vowed to keep to monastic rules.  The monks realised the value of sheep and their fleeces in this northern region, and as they acquired their land, established outlying granges, they developed a huge industry in sheep farming.  English wool was in great demand in the 13^th century, and sales to the continent of surplus supplies brought high profits.  The habits worn by the monks were of low quality wool, the ‘choir’ monks in fleece-white habits, the lay brothers in brown habits, and animal skins were also worn in winter months.

In 1175, before monks arrived in Arncliffe, the manor of Hawkswick was held by William de Mauleverer who granted some land to Fountains Abbey and access over bridges on the rivers Skirfare and Wharfe, which the Abbey was required to maintain.  Later, Thurstin de Arches bought all the remaining estate of Mauleverer and granted the entirety to the Abbey, which extensively increased their land-holding.  (Substantial earthworks around Arncliffe Cote and Hawkswick Cote have been investigated by archaeologists which appear to be medieval and likely related to monastic occupation.)  About forty grants of land were actually made relating to Arncliffe and the Abbey, in exchange for prayerful monks to consider these benefactors as worthy of God’s pleasure, for the salvation of their souls.  Grants gave right of tenure and the income from the land, but not absolute ownership as the land was returned to the King or family control later.

Presumably the settled Anglians retained their dwellings and much of their life in their village when the monks began to establish their presence, but they became tenant farmers of the Abbey and had to comply with the productive management of sheep.  A monastic grange complex was established, at Old Cote.  In fact, the current 17^th century building is on the footings of the grange, and it is thought that there is evidence of the original building behind Old Cote.

Grange buildings were highly functional agricultural complexes.  The buildings were frequently combined under a single roof, including shared dormitories for lay brothers, basic kitchens and secure storage for farm tools, harvested grain and animal fodder.  There would need to be adjacent folds, byres and stables for livestock.  The brothers slept on straw mattresses covered with single blankets or animal skins.  They were better fed than ‘choir’ monks because of their hard and long labour, from daybreak to dusk, disciplined, often solitary workers and required to allow prayer-times in each day.

The number of lay brothers necessary at a lesser grange like Arncliffe would be about ten, with a grangemaster in charge, managing wool production from probably 300-400 sheep.  Neighbouring Kilnsey was a more prominent grange, with its own chapel, and up to twenty brothers.

(Fountains Abbey, at the height of its prosperity, would have had 800 lay brothers, most of them allocated to outlying granges……..until the depopulation from the Black Death plague in the 14^th century when surviving PEASANTS became more valuable workers.)

Lay brothers at Arncliffe were responsible for rearing sheep for the best quality wool, shearing, dipping, treating the fleeces against parasites with a kind of ‘tar’, and cultivating land for produce for their community and for the livestock.  In the more marshy pasture hemp (ditchweed) would be grown as this fibre was harvested and prepared to use as twine and making sacking for the fleeces. Stock was seasonally moved to trading areas, mostly at Great Close, Malham, using the established tracks, lanes.

Monks travelled on foot frequently to and from the Abbey, across the open moors on well-trodden routes, but more substantial tracks on lower levels were necessary for oxen-driven carts carrying heavy goods, and for moving livestock.

Fountains Abbey had secured most of Littondale, all Malham Moor and much of Malham, and all Bordley.  At the Dissolution of the monasteries in 1539 these lands were returned to the Crown. Through the Augmentations Office, many of the lands were sold as large areas, either to local lords or to local families who may have been holders under the monasteries.  Much of Littondale land was sold initially to Sir Richard Gresham and on to the Cliffords of Skipton Castle.  Sheep farming continued as a prosperous industry, and the huge wool and textile milling industry developed………

Phyllida Oates

Sources of reference:

Upper Nidderdale Landscape Partnership

Nidderdale History Group: ‘History of Nidderdale’

Arthur Raistrick: ‘Old Yorkshire Dales’

Sonia Wilkinson: ‘Kilnsey, a Dales Township’

Numerous websites

28^th May 2026

 A group of eight set off on the annual visit to Rodley Nature Reserve on the floodplains of the River Aire on the edge of Leeds. The journey was in an unexpected flash thunderstorm with torrential rain and large hailstones clattering on the car roof. Luckily it cleared nicely on arrival.

We were immediately greeted by the familiar call of a song thrush which was hard to spot in the thick foliage of the trees and shrubs. We were reminded that it was going to be one of those days when more birds would be heard than seen. On the way to the riverside and wetlands the group saw or heard an array of resident and migrant birds including Goldfinches, Greenfinches, Blackbird, Robin, Wren, Dunnock, Willow Warbler, Chiffchaff, Blackcap and Sedge Warbler. As it got hotter damselflies, Small Whites, Orange-tips, Painted Lady and Peacocks fluttered around. The metallic blue body and black bands on the wings of a male Banded Demoiselle and the shiny green body of a female looked stunning in the sunlight.  A Red kite circled over the Scrub followed by a Buzzard being mobbed by a corvid. At this point the group decided to settle at the picnic benches by the river for a mid morning coffee break and was treated to the display flight and song of a Whitethroat which is always a delight. From the hide overlooking the wetland, Little egrets, Herons, Oystercatchers and Lapwings were seen and Cetties, Reed Warbler and Reed Bunting were heard. The quick torpedo flight of a Kingfisher going over the hide with a flash of blue as it disappeared into the reedbeds caused a bit of excitement. 

We ate lunch in the cool comfort of the visitor centre while watching the display screens showing live coverage of five Barn Owl and four Kestrel chicks. After lunch more wetland species Moorhen, Tufted Duck, Coot, Mallard, Mute Swan with six cygnets, Gadwall were seen. Disappointingly the Little and Great-crested Grebes remained elusive! Sand Martins, Swallows and Swifts swooped around us catching insects and the bright green of a Ring-necked Parakeet flashed by. 43 three species in all were seen .

 An enjoyable day!

Report by Pragna Unia

Only four members of the bird group were able to come to the day’s very pleasant outing to a nature reserve just south of York. As soon as we stepped out of the car we were surrounded by glorious birdsong, much of which was being delivered by warblers – Willow, Garden, Sedge, Reed, and Cetti’s warblers, Blackcap, Whitethroat, and Chiffchaff.  Reed Buntings, Song Thrush, Robins, Blackbirds, and Skylarks, also made lovely contributions throughout the day.

A male Marsh Harrier gave us several very nice sightings, as well as both Little Egret and the Great White. There were a number of Herons, along with a few species of ducks on the pools, and a sedate pair of Mute Swans with cygnets.

Although we prepared for rain, there were only a couple of light showers when we were luckily in hides.

A peaceful and quiet reserve, apart from the sound of the birds!

We saw 43 species.

Report: Clare Dunn

On Thursday 23rd April 13 members of the group met at Bolton Hall, which was original gatehouse of Bolton Priory. The c.14 building was converted into a hunting lodge in 1652 and was owned by the Dukes of Devonshire since 1748 when the 4th Duke, William Cavendish married Lady Charlotte Boyle a descendant of the Cliffords.  In 1840/44 the 6th Duke employed Sir Joseph Paxton to undertake extensive work to the gatehouse, as well as work at Chatsworth.  Paxton was responsible for the building of Crystal Palace.

Peter Smith, the gardener employed by the estate since 1976 showed us the egg shaped ice house.  Peter then took us to the kitchen garden built in 1717 and which hehas completely rejuvenated over the past 20 years.  He introduced a water supply from a stream off the moor into a dipping pond which he utilised on the beds and borders and the surplus is diverted back into the stream below.

The garden was looking very springlike with a multitude of colourful tulips and a fascinating chocolate vine (Ankebia Quinata white chocolate)climbing over arches, which took everyone’s fancy.

We took a look at the workshop, tool store and former dog kennels, before returning to the gatehouse to welcome cakes and drinks.  We viewed the adjacent drawing room with many family portraits and exquisite furniture and finally enjoyed the lovely garden round the hall.

A group of 6 members met at Leighton Moss and the weather was perfect for a springtime day out birdwatching, with blue skies and sunshine, although quite a stiff breeze from the sea.

High tide would be at 11.30am, so we arrived firstly at the Allen Hide a little before high tide, viewing an abundant number of waders and gulls crowded onto the islands and the grassy edges of the water, waiting for the tide to begin its retreat.

Our walk along the path towards the Allen Hide bordered by shrubs and trees rewarded us with the song of a Wren, heard clearly but not seen. Also, good sightings of Robin and Cetti’s Warbler, both singing loudly.

Once inside the Hide, the multitude of birds across the water was amazing. Black-headed Gulls, a huge number of Redshank, a real treat to see so many together, mostly gathered on the islands and patches of grass at the water’s edge, occasionally rising up and taking flight altogether before quickly settling back to earth. Other great sightings were Oystercatcher, Black-tailed Godwits, Avocet, Little Egret, Shelduck, Great Black-backed Gull, Gadwall, Shoveler, Dunlin, Pochard, Wigeon and Mute Swan.

Leaving the Allen Hide to walk on to The Morecambe Hide, we enjoyed sightings of Greenfinch, Goldfinch, Woodpigeon, Carrion Crow, Jackdaw, Skylark and Chaffinch. Also, hearing the song of Reed Warbler and Reed Bunting, but not seen.  Inside The Morecambe Hide the views over Morecambe bay and our previous view point presented many of our earlier sightings.

Next, we made the short drive to Warton Sands Nature Reserve, an interesting landscape with evidence of past industry and now returned to nature, a haven for birdlife. A good footpath following the riverside running towards Morecambe bay presented so many sightings, Swallows, House Sparrow, Feral Pigeon, Goldfinch, Skylarks gathering nest material, Grey Heron, Pied Wagtail, Lapwing, Mallard, Goosander, Lesser Black-backed Gull, Curlew, Sandpiper, Ringed Plover, Linnet and Wheatear.

Also, a huge crowd of Redshank and multitude of other waders all busy running around and feeding as the tide ebbed away revealing the sand and mud rich in nourishment.  Many of these waders we had seen earlier in our outing.

On our return walk to the car park, we saw Greylag and Canada geese.

39 sightings + 4 heard but not seen.

A great day out.

Judith Goodings

Members of the Local History Group gathered together to hear about and discuss, the rise of Nonconformism in the 18^th and 19^th Centuries, with particular reference to Methodism in Upper Wharfedale.

After the Reformation, Elizabeth 1^st established in 1559, the Protestant Church as the official Church of the country. Attendance was compulsory and if you did not attend you were fined. There were further demands and restrictions on ministers, which lead to many resigning their livings and the rise of Nonconformism.

Several groups were formed – Baptists, Presbyterians, Quakers, Independents – later Congregationalists and Methodists. Methodism sprang from John Wesley’s own beliefs on how the religious life should be led. He and his brother Charles and their followers toured the country. He preached twice in Grassington on 1^st May 1780 and 29^th April 1782. He spoke by the barn, now a private house, and formerly the Mountaineer outdoor clothing shop, just beyond the car park opposite the Town Hall.

Although the first meetings would be outside, eventually they would be held in private houses or barns, forming into societies and often going on to build chapels.

However, well before the above visits of the Wesleys, folk had been inspired by the itinerant preachers from The Great Haworth Round, the wide spreading preaching circuit of William Grimshaw the curate at Haworth. Early records from Keighley Reference Library show early societies were in Grassington, Skyrethornes, Hebden, Burnsall and Skyreholme. As time went on there were societies in Barden, Conistone, Kettlewell, Buckden, Litton, Thorpe, Starbotton, Yockenthwaite, Dibdale, Linton and Hawkswick. So, a very wide covering of Upper Wharfedale.

Who were the folk who joined the societies, going on in many places to build the chapels?

The names and occupations of the trustees of the early chapels found in early documents, show how varied those trustees were. There were Yeomen, Lead miners, Farmers, Grocers, Gentlemen, Weavers, Cotton Spinners, Shopkeepers, Maltsters, Publicans, Cordwainers (Boot and Shoemakers and Repairers), Spinners, Servants. These occupations give a good idea of what the environment looked like with mills near water, lead mines on the moors, farm animals on the pastures and the usual shops and pubs.

The trustees would raise the money and be responsible for paying the debt. Often chapels were in debt for a long time.

The 19^th century was the age of chapel building. Grassington Chapel was built in 1811 replacing an earlier meeting house. Later, the present frontage, gallery and pews were added and later still the schoolroom and cottage. In the next decades chapels appeared up and down the dale – Buckden, Starbotton, Kettlewell, Conistone, Hebden, Burnsall and Barden although not thought of now, as been in Upper Wharfedale. Nearby chapels were at Hetton and Cracoe, These chapels would have been known as Wesleyans.

By 1843 these Wesleyan chapels were not the only Methodist places of worship. Primitive Methodists or Ranters, had begun a revival, wanting to get back to the original form of worship as in John Wesley’s time – simple, enthusiastic, and outdoor preaching style. Nonetheless they built chapels, three in places where there were already Wesleyan buildings – Grassington, Hebden and Kettlewell. Two others were built at Threshfield and Howgill.  The Grassington Primitive was built almost opposite the Wesleyan and is still a substantial building on the track from Chapel Street to Garrs End Lane.

An early preaching plan of 1843 lists 15 villages where services took place. Grassington and Kettlewell having 3 Sunday services and 4 other villages having 2

During the talk and afterwards there was discussion of the social advantages of these groups up and down the Dale, it seems likely that after the religious aspect of the meetings, informal chat would ensue. The meetings were divided into classes, each with a leader, to help, guide and advise. Chapels large and small would have a Sunday School which in some areas in early times, would teach the children to read and write. Chapel Anniversaries were celebrated with tea parties and often a concert as well.

Not all societies led to a chapel been built, such were in Skyrethorns – a very early society -Litton, Arncliffe, Thorpe, Yockenthwaite, Skyreholme, Linton, Hawkswick.

It seems clear that in the 19^th century and perhaps into the 20^th century Methodism would have played an important part in the communities of Upper Wharfedale. But now with the many changes that have taken place in all parts of lives and livings, only one chapel remains Grassington.

Christine Bell

A group of seven members had a beautiful sunny mild day for a visit to this reserve of pools opposite the sea shore at the north end of Southport.

 From the car park we looked out to sea across the vegetated mud flats and we could see the heads and dark necks of several groups of Pink-footed Geese. Next we heard the loud call of a Cetti’s Warbler but as usual were not able to see it.

On the walk to the first hide we saw Goldfinch and heard Skylark.

 Over coffee we were able to see Ducks, Waders and Gulls but not the special Little Stint that had been seen the day before. However we were very happy to identify Bar-tailed Godwits, Redshank and Dunlin, described as large medium and small waders. Here were only Canada Geese, a pair of Greylag Geese were seen from another hide.

Through the day Gulls were abundant, Black-headed, Herring, Black-backed but, as no legs  seen, we were unable to identify further, and a few Common Gulls. Most of the usual Ducks were seen and several Little Grebes and Avocets.

 Walking west we visited a screen then the other hide where we had our lunches. Plants provided other interest along the way with small birds including Wren and Goldcrest. Two members found a Dune Stinkhorn some of the rest found European Spindle just coming into leaf and bud, having remembered it from a previous visit in autumn when it was showing its orange and red berries.

 An excellent day having seen over 40 species of bird and the added benefit of flowers, plants, good company and weather.

 Josephine Drake

Wigglesworth Hall, its people and story……..

The History Group was unable to make a visit to Wigglesworth Hall, near Hellifield, now a large and busy dairy farm, but were very interested in identifying the story and early social history of the Hall and lands, which was presented at an indoor meeting on the 26^th  February.  This revealed connections with many familiar notable families in our area.

An “enclosure” belonging to a man named Wincel was indicated in the 1086 Domesday Survey, and the small community became known as “Winchelsuuorde”.  By the year 1200 much of the area, including “Wigglesworth”, was possessed by Fountains Abbey which was founded in 1137 by Cistercian monks from Clairvaux, France, and held by a Norman family of de Arches.

De Arches remained at Wigglesworth for over 100 years, a powerful and influential family, until a daughter named Beatrice inherited the property and married Reginald de Knoll which brought the manors of Wigglesworth and Starbotton together.  Their son, Elyas, is reputed to have built the original Hall in the 14^th century.

A successive marriage resulted in Wigglesworth Hall and lands being occupied by Adam de Hammerton of Ribblesdale and their male line continued until 1537 with marriages to daughters of William de Radcliffe, Sir John Tempest of Bracewell, Sir John Assheton, and Sir William Plumpton of Grassington.  It was about 1500 when Isabel Plumpton, married to Sir Stephen Hammerton, is considered to have had the great Tithe barn built, which served all the Long Preston parish, but which was seriously damaged by fire in 1958.

Sir Stephen Hammerton became involved in the revolt against the Pilgrimage of Grace and the Dissolution of the Monasteries, particularly concerned with Sawley Abbey.  He was found guilty of treason and was executed in 1537.  Wigglesworth manor was within the major part of the estate which was forfeited to King Henry VIII, and the manor was subsequently granted to Sir Thomas  Holcroft, later transferred to Sir Richard Sherburn of Stoneyhurst, a staunch Roman Catholic.

The Sherburns made extensive alterations to Wigglesworth Hall, which included a secret Priest hole, but this Tudor house was  largely replaced by a Georgian rebuild.  Evidence of earlier relics were identified later, including a small part of a flagged passage four feet below the surface reputed to run under the River Ribble to Hellifield Pele tower.  The Hall had remained in the Sherburn family for well over 100 years, but there was a succession of new owners from the early 17^th century into the 20^th century.  The land was always farmed but when the Sherburns were in occupation in 1575 the Hall was used as a dower house for elderly and widowed women, recusants as they refused to conform to Protestant worship.  The men however usually did conform in order to avoid financial penalties on their estates.

However, the Wigglesworth family re-emerged in the 16^th century manor of Conistone, for centuries held by the family de Hebden but which came to the Tempests of Broughton.  In 1568 Richard Tempest sold the manor to Alexander Rishworth, but before the sale he leased a farmhold, buildings and lands to his tenant Richard Wigglesworth.  Richard was able to buy the manor when the lease expired, and which his son Thomas inherited.  The family continued succession and by 1681 it was owned by a further Richard, by which time the original lands had increased by purchases to be one of the larger farms in Conistone township.

Richard had married Anne Leyland in 1677, and when she died he married Elizabeth Topham.  Eventually the extensive property was inherited by Richard’s two brothers, Thomas and William.  Thomas continued with the estate while William became a prosperous tanner at Cottingley.  When Thomas died in 1741 he left the entire property to William, which included land in Bolton Abbey, Otley and Conistone.  William transferred the Hemplands houses and land to Richard Horner, the Conistone house and lands to Robert Topham……..and here we concluded our delving into the Wigglesworths and Wigglesworth Hall.

Postscript : During the early 19^th century a family  of Wigglesworths used the Coat of Arms of the de Arches, namely three Saxon arches.

With thanks for the use of the Wigglesworth Hall website, and

Arthur Raistrick’s book “Old Yorkshire Dales.

Phyllida.

A range of unfortunate events meant that on a cold February morning only three ornithology group members were free to travel to Staveley.  The 19^th of February started cold, dull and damp and whilst the temperature rose slightly during the day the dull and damp remained!  Despite this we had a good day with nearly all the usual suspects seen!  We had good views of Goldeneye, Teal, Lapwing, Shoveler, Gadwall, Little Egret and Shelduck and a fleeting glimpse of a Great Egret on the East Lagoon.  On the return walk to the car park we had managed a total of 36 species and were still hoping to make it 40!

A magpie kindly gave us 37 and then as we turned onto the Willow Wood path, we had the great pleasure of seeing a Gold Crest, a Treecreeper and best of all a Marsh Tit!  An inauspicious start had turned into good days ‘birding’ with 40 species seen.

Leader Cynthia Colley.

5 members of the ornithology  group visited Nidderdale, hoping that the forecast of no rain before midday would hold.

Our first spot was a large group of Lapwings lying over the water. They were around all the time, changing direction and splitting up into groups and then reforming, it was a joy to see them.  Other highlights were Red Kite , Buzzard and Great Spotted Woodpecker.

In all we saw 22 species.

Canada Goose, Wigeon, Mallard, Tufted Duck, Goosander, Red Kite, Buzzard, Pheasant, Lapwing, Black headed Gull, Common Gull, Wood Pigeon, Great Spotted Woodpecker, Blackbird, Fieldfare, Long tailed tit, Coal tit, Great tit, Common Crow , Jackdaw, Chaffinch.

We adjourned for lunch where we met up with more members. As we sat down the heavens opened with heavy mist, so we counted ourselves very lucky to have a successful visit.

Win Clements