Local History group visit to Sawley Abbey 24th Oct 24

On that respectfully calm morning, in autumn sunshine, we spent time in the historic grounds of Sawley Abbey, and with the benefit of Marion’s extensive research we absorbed the affect of the ancient ruins in their tranquil setting.

Sawley Abbey was founded in 1146/7 on land given by William, 3^rd Lord Percy, and Abbot Benedict established twelve Cistercian monks on the site, having moved from Newminster in Northumberland.  Cistercian monks from an Order founded in France were often known as the White Monks due to their hooded habits in white wool with a black girdle.  The location was on the very edge of Percy land, on the border of the de Lacy fiefdom, not in a remote area but on a main east-west route, with farms and villages, a pastoral economy.  This later involved the Abbey in much hospitality which put a strain on resources.  Soon after the foundation of the Abbey, Henry de Lacy gave permission for the monks to strengthen their dam, make a fishpond and build a mill.  They also were able to share the rights of pannage etc. in the forest with the farming community.

The Abbey is considered to be one of the earliest Cistercian churches to be built in England. The original buildings of wood and thatch were gradually extended and rebuilt in stone.  Its walls were faced in sandstone from nearby quarries, infilled with rubble, which is clearly seen now in the ruins.  Many decorative stone features are still carefully displayed, and some more substantial areas of the ruins distinctly reveal their original purpose.

The early years proved difficult for the monks, especially in developing crops, as the seasonal weather was very inclement and the pastures were poorly drained, but the monks became pioneers in sheep rearing and much of their wealth came from the transactions in wool and sheep.  They also developed a herd of the ancient white park cattle.  Many endowments were received to sustain the abbey, including gifts of land, but Sawley endured a stormy period in their history when Whalley Abbey was founded in 1296.  This close proximity intrusion developed restrictions in the area of buying and marketing produce, which consequently created challenging competitive prices.  The two abbeys were always bickering so it was necessary for four Abbots to draw up a Special Order in 1305 against transgression by either party.  The early 14^th century was also subjected to numerous raids by marauding Scots which resulted in the destruction of some outlying Abbey property and the loss of livestock.

Although the monks studied in the strict and literal adherence to the doctrine of St. Benedict, and maintained their praising of God seven times each day, they did help with some of the manual work of the Abbey.  However, it was the lay brothers, generally uneducated though devotedly religious, who were involved more industriously in the manual work on the Abbey farms.  The Cistercians were well known for their skill in transforming waste into profitable farmland.  The community of Sawley grew steadily during the 1300s until by 1381 there were nearly 30 monks, including novices, and 45 servants at the Abbey and, for the first time, its future seemed secure.

When Sawley Abbey was to suffer at the hands of Henry VIII and Thomas Cromwell in 1536, a new rising had begun to form in Westmorland and Cumberland, and spread into Yorkshire.  Many men of north east Lancashire and the Yorkshire Dales joined the Pilgrimage of Grace in an attempt to keep Sawley and Whalley Abbeys intact.  Nicholas Tempest of Bashall and Stephen Hamerton of Hamerton Hall near Slaidburn were local leaders.  This proved impossible and Tempest and Hamerton were executed.  The last Abbot of Sawley, Thomas Bolton, and the last Abbot Whalley, John Paslew, were hanged in Lancaster in 1537.

To prevent Sawley Abbey becoming a focus of resistance to the Protestant religion, the buildings were dismantled and much of the stone sold, but many pieces of carved stone can still be found in buildings and walls in Sawley village and on surrounding farms.  Our day included a walk in the village and we were able to identify some of the historic features, and appreciated the continuity of the pastoral life.

Sawley Abbey and all the lands in Yorkshire which it had controlled remained in the hands of the D’Arcy family until the beginning of the 17^th century.  The Estate was gradually broken up and the Abbey itself passed through a number of hands.  By the beginning of the 18^th century it had become a celebrated ruin, drawn not only by the Buck brothers in the 1720s but by Turner and many other 18^th and 19^th century artists.  In 1934 Sawley Estate was purchased by J.E. Fattorini of Bradford and it is now managed by English Heritage.

Much of this information has been gathered from the writings of Gerald Halstead – “Survey of the Remains of Sawley Abbey”, 1951, and a publication by English Heritage.  Marion’s research notes are very comprehensive and, as with all the History Group’s projects, files are kept.

Words and pictures by Phyllida Oates

Content created by Keith P.

Items for further consideration:

• The Cistercian order originated from Citeaux in France, now Saint-Nicholas-Les-Citeaux. The abbey continues to be in use;
• Fountains Abbey and Furness Abbey were major Cistercian Abbeys in the North and, according to an information board at Furness Abbey, their lands bordered in east Lancashire and Craven areas. Sawley leaned towards Fountains as Newminster Abbey was founded by Fountains;
• Coming from the sea, nearby Ribchester was the first place where the Ribble could be crossed in the Middle Ages. Thus an abbey in this area would be an important place for trade;
• According to Wikipedia, contributing factors to the “Pilgrimage of Grace” were:
  • In 1535 a bad harvest had resulted in Grain Riots in Craven;
  • In 1536 the Abbot at Sawley had re-built parts of the abbey destroyed in the Suppression and re-instated Nuns and Monks into the accommodation given to Henry VIII’s supporters, thereby offending the King;
  • 1536 was the year Katherine of Aragon died and Anne Boleyn was executed. In the North, Catholic Katherine was popular and suspected Protestant Anne’s charges of adultery and treason had undermined the monarch’s prestige;
• The decision to initiate the Pilgrim of Grace took place in the Blue room at Raby Castle

Tracery from Sawley Abbey windows can be found near Beckermonds as reported in “News 11 Jun 21” (click here) and in a study of the Lancaster-Richmond-Newcastle coach road in 2012 by Jim Hutchinson and his comprehensive findings are on this website “Coach road Lancaster- Newcastle Coach road Lancaster- Newcastle” with a summary in our 2013 bulletin.