Local History and Vernacular Buildings
The group paid visits to the following places and the reports are below:
- Crossing the Wharfe
- Skipton
- Waddow Hall and Waddington
- Arncliffe
- Ripon
- Hill Farming at Kidstones
- Markenfield Hall
- Sabden Great Hall
- Heulaugh: Wharton and Fairfax families
We are fortunate that we have unbreakable strands of tangible and evocative structural and social history. These strands are apparent in our group visits to historic homes, towns, farming and early milling areas, and we have identified many rough and hazardous routes early travellers endured. The durability of 17th century building, with the skills of their stonemasons and carpenters, offers us evidence of centuries of footfall, continued re-use of those early buildings and datestones identifying marriages and families.
Crossing the Wharfe
Peggy and Pete Wright began our 2016 programme in the spring with a different angle. They presented a photographic journey of a variety of historic crossings of the River Wharfe and some ‘feeder’ becks. In the past, crossing water was a much more hazardous experience and safe river crossings were so important that settlements often grew around them. The earliest means were surely fords at places where the river or stream ran shallowly and the bedrock was flat.
Remaining signs of at least twelve fords were discovered on their investigative walk. (Apparently there was an occasion in the 15th century when a funeral procession carrying a coffin along the corpse way from Buckden to the burial grounds in Arncliffe actually lost their corpse in the swollen waters of the Wharfe.) A number of packhorse bridges were also identified, the prettiest of which is probably the stone arch over Lower Cray Gill Beck. In Starbotton a unique means of crossing was spotted between the two footbridges: a double chain strung one above the other, requiring precarious balancing, but fortunately marked ‘Private’ so it couldn’t be tested! Peggy and Pete encountered stepping stones at Beckermonds, Cray and Starbotton, and two sets at Linton, and Kettlewell where one set at the top of the village was all but washed away, though the approaches at either side are obvious with openings through the walls. Two clapper bridges were recorded at Starbotton and Linton, and the possible remains of one outside the old brewery at Kilnsey. It may be surprising to learn that a total of 100 crossings of the river and connecting becks were captured on this short stretch of our beautiful dale.
Skipton
We took another opportunity to study Skipton’s history, guided by Sue Wrathmell (Joint Chair of Skipton Civic Society) and organised by Rita and Ian Clark. Sue’s expertise in history and buildings gives us a valuable insight into the town’s historic past.
The earliest area is the north end, its height being important, where the prominent Norman Castle evidently occupies the site of a prehistoric settlement and of Roman occupation . The medieval-founded parish church is also considered to have been built on a Saxon religious site.
Eller Beck was always an important feature too, where the High Corn Mill is sited and dates back to 1310. Original access routes converged here; and the town’s merchants, therefore , emanated from this area, progressing to the granted medieval market place with burgage plots, ginnels, alleys and yards , which developed the thriving High Street.
Springs Canal was constructed in 1797 to directly link the sinuous Eller Beck with the Leeds Liverpool Canal, initially to carry limestone out from the quarries behind the castle, and the great mills were established. The town spread southwards from the market, into 18th century trade, hospitality and prosperity. We had an interesting view inside ‘The Devonshire’ public house in Newmarket Street which had been the Duke of Devonshire’s 18th century Town House.
Waddow Hall and Waddington
Across the border into Lancashire, Marion Hutchinson introduced us to Waddow Hall and the village of Waddington . This Hall, now owned by the Girl Guides Association, originated in the 16th century as a Tempest family dower house. Although much altered in Georgian and Victorian times, some small attic rooms do still reveal Tudor beams, with clear carpenters’ rase marks.
Waddington village is built on each side of its beck, and was once busy with milling, farming and a tannery. Nineteenth century houses built in twos and threes are prominent now, but early cobbled access routes remain, undoubtedly used by the monks travelling between the two great abbeys of Sawley and Whalley.
Two imposing pair of gates in the middle of the village allow a glimpse of the handsom facade of Waddington Old Hall. The greater part of this Hall dates back to at least 1464 when Henry VI took refuge here, but was betrayed by Thomas Talbot of neighbouring Bashall. Extensive restoration took place in 1900 by John Waddington , who claimed to be a direct descendant of the Anglo-Saxon chieftain Wadda and whose family seat was Waddington .
The Church probably dates from the 13th or 14th century when a new parish was created from part of the parish of Mitton, but it has been rebuilt twice in the last 200 years. Similarly, attractive Almshouses originated in the 17th century, to accommodate ten widows . In 1700 Edward Parker and five other trustees used the rents of land, typically, to maintain the hospital, which was subsequently rebuilt and modernised, as was the small chapel which we were able to access.
Arncliffe
Accompanied with archive notes, the group met in Littondale’s Arncliffe to review this ancient village developed from Iron Age settlers on the hillside, and 9th century Anglo-Saxons. Their compact system around a communal green still applies, on original sites of cottages, barns, workshops , an inn and a church. The ancient farming system is still visible, 17th century barns still in use, as is historic Back Lane, the turf Monks’ road and the narrow packhorse bridge over Cowside Beck.
The 14th century corn mill which progressively adapted, now modernised to serve as residences, still reveals very early features. Arncliffe’s church originated in 1100, was rebuilt in 1500, restored in the 18th century, and the churchyard retains many notable memorials, including Archdeacon Boyd and Canon Shuffrey. The frequent visits of Charles Kingsley in the 19th century are well documented, and the clear waters of the River Skirfare are considered to have inspired his writing of ‘The Water Babies’
Ripon
We then spent a good mid-summer day in Ripon, specifically to look into its marketplace history. Inevitably it was important to recognise that Ripon owes its township to Northumbria’s Abbot Wilfrid who established a monastery here in the 7th century, on the site of the present imposing Minster, from which Kirkgate has always been an important access into the developing town. This hilltop marketplace was already a trading area in Anglo-Saxon times, but the medieval 5-acre plan is what exists today, with significant ‘gate’ways.
Most of the long, narrow medieval burgage plots are still identifiable, with cobbled ginnels opening into yards behind, similar to Skipton. Stone and brick masonry survives from as early as the 15th century, and the historic alley walls retain interesting features including filled-in arched doorways (presumably into yards and workshops once). There were several inns in this trading area, many of which had coach access and stabling at the rear. The original marketplace was at the northern extent, with a market-cross, tollbooth and court, shambles, in-fills, bakehouse and pillory (the pillery now seen in the Police and Prison Museum). The southern extent, with its 1702 Obelisk, was always more open, with portable stalls and stock pens.
By the 17th century the once-prolific wool and textile industry was replaced by metalwork manufacture, which notably produced the renowned Ripon rowel (the sharp-pointed wheel on spurs). Law in the bustling trading area was enforced by elected Wakemen from the 14th Century, succeeded by Mayors and the first police force. Documents and records show the diversity of this long established market, centre of commerce and trade and centre of public gatherings.
Hill farming at Kidstones
Chris Akrigg is the owner of Manor Farm, Cray, and Kidstones Farm, and invited us (through an approach by Frances Bland) to learn of a typical year on a hill farm and it was illuminating.
Kidstones is much modernised and expanded, but Mr. Akrigg explained his continued use of the well-built old barns, and a field barn which still reveals ‘ evidence of 17th century cruck construction. Manor Farm at Cray, perched above Langstrothdale, alongside steep Cray Gill, retains much of its early structure, including outside privies strategically placed next to the Gill’s ever-tumbling cascade.
We were well-alerted to a hill farmer’s pressured seasonal necessities in stock maintenance, feed, marketing, weather, and just keeping up. This area was all part of the great Langstrothdale Chase in Norman times, owned by the Percys of Northumberland, succeeded by the Cliffords eventually. Buckden was the headquarters of a vast deer forest, Cray being one of the hunting lodges.
Markenfield Hall
Val Walker-Wilton organised a guided visit to Markenfield Hall near Ripon, a place once described as Yorkshire’s best kept secret (but hardly a secret these days!). It is the most complete surviving medium-sized 14th century country house in England. Our guide initially led us around the external area, following the moat which surrounds the house, pointing out the crenellated tower, the medieval garderobe, the massive Great Hall chimney, and the rear of the unaltered medieval farmworkers’ accommodation.
The house was first mentioned in the Domesday Book. By 1150 the estate had come into the possession of the LeBret family who adopted the name de Markenfield. John de Markenfield added the present house in 1310. We crossed the bridge over the moat and through the Tudor gatehouse and courtyard to begin the internal tour, which included the early 13th century undercroft with its vaulted ceiling, the Great Hall and the Chapel, both now restored, and finally into what had been the solar. The family fortunes continued to flourish until their Roman Catholic faith necessitated involvement in the Rising of the North, and consequently in 1569 their estate was confiscated . The unoccupied house was down-graded lo a working farmhouse with absentee landlord, remaining so until the 20th century when the Grantley family took possession.
Sabden Great Hall
We had an unexpected invitation from Gayle Wray and Volker to Sabden Great Hall in Lancashire. The greater part of this place has been their home for fourteen years, and we felt privileged and grateful for their hospitality. Parts of the Hall are thought to date back to the late 16th century, on a defendable site of an earlier date, with steep slopes on two sides. This area of the Forest ofBowland developed from substantial 13th century vaccaries to copyhold tennants of Henry VII.
The Hall was rebuilt in the 17th century, including the advantage of many six-light mullioned windows, and one first floor double six light window, in presumably the solar. A previous owner plaster-boarded a considerable internal area but now the stonework has been revealed again, also early doorways and a vast fireplace, partitioned rooms and access into the roof. Progressive damp in the stone walls and huge structural cracks had to be seriously addressed; windows, beams, corbels and many structural features needed considerable attention before work could begin on the interior detail. The house is outstanding, sensitively allowing modern comforts, but retaining the typically aesthetic 17th century.
The Wharton and Fairfax families. Notes from a visit to Heulaugh by Les Bloom.
The de Quertons settled in the north west soon after the Norman Conquest. Their name gradually changed to Wharton and by the 15th century they were moving from Lammerside Castle in the Mallerstang Valley near Kirkby Stephen, to their newly built Wharton Hall, in the same valley. Wharton Hall was extended and fortified following the Pilgrimage of Grace with a gatehouse, great wall and a 68ft long Great Hall. They may have entertained James I too lavishly here, resulting in harder times.
Thomas Wharton’s (1495-1568) internationally important alabaster tomb is in Healaugh church and along with him, his first wife Eleanor Stapleton, daughter of Sir Brian, of nearby Wighill Park and his second wife, daughter of the Earl of Shrewsbury. Henry VIII knighted him for his services as a Warden of the West Marches and the Healaugh Priory was sold to Lord Wharton when it was dissolved in 1535. He had a home built out of the ruins. He was granted the lordship of Kirkby Stephen by Henry VIII after his victory over the Scots at the Battle of Solway Moss in 1542.
We admired and discussed the richly carved south doorway of the church (one of the most sumptuous in the West Riding according to Pevsner) built in 1150AD at the centre of a Saxon village situated on a glacial moraine. The Augustinian priory was built in 1218AD. The 15th century wood door of the church has a bullet hole, possibly shot through by a Roundhead trooper on his way to the Battle of Marston Moor in 1644. Linked to the priory church is the name Heio, a nun who was consecrated by St. Aidan of Lindisfarne (who himself was brought over from Iona by King Oswald of Northumbria) . Heio built a convent at Hartlepool then came down to the Tadcaster area to find a place to settle in 650AD. A tiny pane of glass in the west window of the tower has her name and dates inscribed on it and stones with her name on them have been found in the area. The reredos at the east end of the church includes the carved figures of St. Aidan and King Oswald.
The ‘Good Lord’, the fourth Lord Wharton (1613-96), established the Lord Wharton Bible Trust, four years before he died. Profits from his lands at Sinningthwaite, near Healaugh, were set apart to provide bibles and prayer books to children who memorised and repeated seven psalms which he specified. The Trustees sold the lands in 1871 and their investments still provide bibles and prayer books all over the country. We were able to examine some of these old bibles which are in the church along with details for visitors to read.
Three miles from Healaugh is Bilbrough Church where the splendid tomb of Thomas, third Lord Fairfax of Cameron, ‘Black Tom’, is sited in the South Chantry Chapel, all that is left of the old church. Sir Thomas lies here, according to his will, ‘. . . in such a manner as may be convenient and decent rather than pompous’. He was born at Denton Hall in 1612 and died at Nun Appleton Hall in 1671. At Marston Moor (1644), Cromwell, Lord Fairfax (Sir Thomas’s father) and Sir Thomas each had command of cavalry units but a year later it was Sir Thomas who took command of England’s first professional army, the New Model Army and Cromwell was his second in command. He defeated Charles the First at Naseby in 1645.
We stopped six miles away at the Battle of Marston Moor site with it’s obelisk and description boards. The Cromwell Association had the obelisk placed in position in 1936 but gave little mention of Sir Thomas. Forty years later they added another plaque, with the inscription: ‘Here in his native county Sir Thomas Fairfax fought for Parliament with brilliance and success’. He and his father saved York by ending the siege thus allowing the troops to march in but there was no looting, no reprisals and no vandalising of church stained glass as happened in other cities.
Conclusion
We concluded the year’s programme in Bronte Bedford-Payne’s house where she gave a talk on Charles Kingsley’s involvement in the Dales. This English clergyman and novelist was a frequent guest at Arncliffe’s Bridge End House and Malham Tarn House in the 19th century, where he indulged his love of natural science and pursued his writing. Many consider that Kingsley’s story of ‘The Water Babies’ was inspired by his time here, and Bronte chose to research the connections in the story with this area. She also weaved in many early memories and the very interesting history of Malham Tarn estate, which we hope to follow up in 2017
Walks
The following walks took place and the reports are below:
Date | Location | Column 4 | |
---|---|---|---|
18 Jun 16 | Boss Moor and Malham Moor | Phyllida Oates | |
16 Jul 16 | Middleham | Kay Greenhalgh | |
20 Aug 16 | Malham Water Sinks to Darnbrook | Josephine Drake | |
17 Sep 16 | Austwick, Thieves Moss and Crummackdale | Philip Sugden | |
15 Oct 16 | Nidderdale | Phyllida Oates | |
19 Nov 16 | Elslack – Pinhaw Beacon circular | Phyllida Oates | |
17 Dec 16 | Kirkby Malham | Anne and Philip Sugden | |
21 Jan 17 | Linton Moor | Phyllida Oates | |
20 Feb 17 | Stainforth to Feizor | Josephine Drake | |
18 Mar 17 | Nidderdale | Phyllida Oates | |
20 May 17 | Sawley | Phyllida Oates |
Boss Moor and Malham Moor
This vast upland area has a long history of man’s ancient settlements and early farming, medieval routeways and drovers’ routes, progressing to association with the Great Close Stock Fairs and walled enclosures, much of which is still very evident. At this time of the year we also expect to see active moorland birds and colourful wayside botany, and we were not disappointe.
From our Boss Moor parking we made or Lainger House, up to Know Bank and Park House, the calm and bright day offering us such grand and extensive views. Onward to Lee Gate where is a high standing stone, presumably marking an old route junction, and here we crossed rocky landscape to near Cow .Gill Cote, had lunch, then joined Mast1les Lane. At Mastiles Gate we turned south to cross High Long Ridge and join Malham Moor Lane, a newly tarmaced road to plod on for a mile but with the presence of nearby early settlements and field systems. Back on turf to approach Higher Heights, the exposed limestone landscape was almost breathtaking, but as we progressed onto High Moor and Boss Moor we were clearly back on Millstone Grit – completing a circular walk of nine miles in very good company.
Middleham
In a stiff breeze but good sunshine our group set off from the busily equestrian town of Middleham, along the full length of the Gallops and into Common Lane. The long gentle climb allowed us expansive views all around, and we maintained the height as we turned south on Middleham High Moor where we had lunch. The route continued through heather and bilberries, and approached the ancient farmland of Melmerby. · This landscape was certainly farmed by norsemen, then the Lords of Middleham, yeomen, and eventually handed down to the present farmers, although famrs today are apparently much smaller.
Our downhill progress brought us to the verdant River Cover where we lingered briefly to absorb this special place, including the riverside ruin of the 1328 St. Simon’s Chapel. The wooded climb up from the river on the southside opened into the well tended pastures of East Scrafton where we turned east. Two steep and lush gills were ahead before we entered the hamlet of Caldberg, with its 17th century Hall and barns. This path followed a long, high edge which gave a vast and unbroken aspect across the Cover valley, behind us the Caldbergh Moor, and eventually we entered Coverham below. The single-span pointed arched bridge here is considered to have been built by the monks of Coverham Abbey in the 15th century (often repaired), and was part of an important packhorse route from Bolton Priory and Kettlewell, over Park Rash. Having passed the church and the Abbey, the wooded path took us alongside the river again briefly before the final climb up onto the open pastures which led us back, past the imposing mass of the Nevilles’ medieval castle, into Middleham. This ten mile walk presented great diversity of interests and terrain, appreciated by a happy group
Malham Water Sinks to Darnbrook
Malham is one of the Dales’ honeypots, but it is possible to walk from there and escape the crowds. Seven intrepid walkers met at Water Sinks car park, in dull but dry conditions and good visibility. The path skirts Malham Tarn, a body of water collected in a glacier-scoured basin of impervious basement rocks and passes to the west of Great Close. Here we saw the first of the Autumn Gentians also known as Fellwort, a purple colour, not the astounding blue of the Spring Gentians found in Teesdale. Middle House was one of the highest farmsteads in Yorkshire, and a Fountains Abbey Grange. The present 16th century building has been stabilised by the National Park and gives us a glimpse into old farming life.
A little further on our route veers off the Monks’ Road and heads north by northwest along a much less distinct path,with a feeling of being miles from anywhere. After passing through the rocky remains of an ancient settlement, and a herd of rather fierce-looking but gentle Longhorn cows, we dropped down the steep slope to a bridge over Cowside Beck, for a lunch stop.
Darnbrook House, another very remote Medieval Grange and now a National Trust holiday let, was visible in the trees but we did not approach it. Then the heavy rain began, and accompanied us for the rest of the walk, up the road to where the Pennine Way crosses near Tennant Gill Farm. We followed the Way to Tarn House, past the cage covering the Kew-cultivated Lady’s Slipper Orchids, and along the track back to the Tarn outlet and car park. Though wet and cold we were well satisfied from good exercise through remote parts full of history, and in good company.
Austwick, Thieves Moss and Crummackdale
A number of our regular walkers were unable to join us, so it was a very select group who set out from Austwick to explore Crummackdale. We followed the walled Thwaite Lane, a packhorse route until the 19th century. Harry Speight wrote in 1897 that “When the packhorse traffic ceased, hundreds of the sonorous bells were sold for old metal, and the brokers’ shops were for a time full of them.”
We turned right from Thwaite Lane into another trackway, Long Lane which we followed steadily uphill towards Sulber. On our left we saw the path which leads to lngleborough via its Cave and Gaping Gill. From the head of the track we continued through upland limestone pasture to Sulber Nick. Here we stopped for lunch, with magnificent views over the amphitheatre of limestone pavement known as Thieves Moss and to Crummackdale via the Beggas stile.
In upper Crummackdale we stopped to look at the early medieval settlements excavated by the Ingleborough Archaeology Group. Our route continued down past Crummack Farm and on towards Austwick pausing to look at the famous fields of large boulders known as the Norber Erratics. A short section thorough fileds brought us back to Austwick.
Nidderdale
With mists still hanging in the dale, our twelve walkers set off from the once Monastic dairy and lodge of Bouthwaite on the Nidderdale Way and slowly climbed onto higher open hillside. The sun emerged periodically and enhanced the colours of the valley and we appreciated the landscape all around us, with the steep rough slope of Dale Edge on our right. Through Lofthouse and on to Thrope Farm where we left the Nidderdale Way, crossed the river and followed a diagonal climb up to Middlesmoor, once an important Fountains Grange, a good place to have our lunch, Gouthwaite reservoir in the distant south view. This place offered a sighting of a red kite wheeling above the church, and some good field mushrooms. At the Dissolution of the monastic manors in the 16th century, Sir John Yorke bought up to 10 000 acres of Nidderdale and built some very fine farm houses on these estates.
We continued by crossing the valley and the dramatic How Stean Gorge to follow a path southwards again. This section proved to be very muddy, with one or two unexpected challenges! But we joined the Nidderdale Way again at Blayshaw, its steep and deep Gill thought to have provided the limestone ‘black marble’ for columns in the Abbey church at Fountains. The well-guided Way led us easily on our last two miles of the 8-mile route, back to Ramsgill/Bouthwaite.
Elslack – Pinhaw Beacon Circuit
Elslack looked lovely, with autumnal trees still laden with colour. This little hamlet is part of the Broughton Hall Estate, with a Hall that dates back to the 14th century and still has an identifiable section of its moat. The ruins of a Roman fort, rebuilt by Anglo-Saxons and called Burwen Castle, destroyed by Danes about 900 AD were on an ancient route from Ribchester to Keighley and Bradford. Our route progress was slowed by icy stiles, deep muddy turf, and frequent sleet showers. West of Elslack, at Wood House, we avoided the mile of moorland climb on the Pennine Way and took the Clogger Lane approach to cross the Carleton/Colne road. (An earlier recce discouraged use of that section of Pennine Way which was deeply boggy, had very slippery wooden boarding and slabs, and would have seriously slowed our progress).
A heartening sunny break soon gave way to snow showers as we climbed, and at Pinhaw we were totally enveloped in persistent snow. We decided to take advantage of a hollow and ate an early and rapid lunch, anxious to make our way, eventually working around the hill from Kirk Sykes farm to the Carleton road again. The group agreed, in view of the persistent chill, poor visibility and challenging ground conditions to avoid Scarcliff and take the two mile ‘escape’ route down Moor Lane back to Elslack, glad to be off the snow moor, and completing just over six miles. Some finished their lunch back at the cars !
Kirby Malham
Accompanied by teasing mist, twelve walkers set off from Kirkby Malham’s historic church (originally the site of pagan worship,) up Cow Close Lane to Old Accraplatts. The atmospheric conditions allowed an interesting aspect of the ruined early farm buildings as we crossed the high turf to Tranlands Gill from which direction we entered Malham. Here we had a coffee stop before beginning the steady climb up Long Lane. The sun was making a valiant attempt to break through the mist which hung around the heights and hollows of this Craven Fault landscape .
Our path brought us around to the top of the dramatic limestone of Malham Cove where we had lunch and shared the appreciation of this place with other walkers and their dogs. We took the long stepway down beside the Cove and joined the Pennine Way back to Malham village, and continued across the hillside to Hanlith. This little hamlet is still dominated by the Hall which originated in 1668 with the Sergeantson family.
Crossing the young River Aire we entered Kirkby Malham again, completing a very satisfying pre Christmas six miles
Linton Moor
Despite a damp and misty day, a substantial group including some visitors, set off from Linton, led by Keith and Wendy. We followed Moor Lane westwards, across the dismantled railway and the motor road, to make our way onto Linton Moor. The high pasture was bleak due to the weather but we alerted many grouse including about six roosting in a tree as we eventually curled round north and east onto Threshfield Moor. Our route then led us past the old coal-mining workings which began operating in the 17th century by Lancelot Johnson. John Delaney was the last owner in the19th century, producing coal for his new limeworks in Threshfield, but the miners simply ran out of coal by1905. We approached Threshfield and joined the path leading to Well Lane and back into Linton, about four and a half miles altogether. Having shunned our boots and jackets, we joined the non-walking group in the Fountaine Inn, in time for a typically good and substantial lunch amidst unbroken babble. Excellent !
Stainforth to Feizor
A view of a distant peak at the beginning of the walk was quite impressive, Smearsett Scar is 363 metres with its own Trig Point, and was an early destination. The beautiful Stainforth Bridge over the Ribble carried the York-Lancaster route from the 17th century. It is well known to many locals, not so happily to an ambulance driver who got stuck on it last year and caused a lot of damage to this ancient monument.
Knight Stainforth Hall is an imposing building and largely 17th century too, but an earlier hall stood on the same site. Continuing steeply uphill gave excellent views backwards at every stop for breath – Penyghent, lngleborough and the hills above Settle. Smearsett Scar began to look more attainable as we glimpsed the so-called Celtic wall, a shelter for stock, with a very wide base. An exciting scramble takes one to the top of Smearsett Scar and an excellent 360 degree panorama. The Scar is the beginning of a ridge extending to Pot Scar, and a lovely walk, but we were trying to beat the forecasted rain.
All temptations of the Feizor cafe were ignored and we headed back towards Stackhouse with views of the Craven Basin, the lower land towards Bowland on the other side of the South Craven Fault. We were walking on limestone rather than the Bowland Muds. However, walking along the riverside was enough mud for us, and sightings of a Dipper kept us cheery. Had we been doing the walk in Autumn we might have seen the salmon leaping in the turbulent falls of the Ribble just below the packhorse bridge. The cars were reached with perfect timing as the first drops of rain appeared.
Nidderdale
Blazefield in Nidderdale was our starting point, on a bright and windy day. A short uphill stretch to join the Nidderdale Way pumped us up and we headed east for Fell Beck and Brimham. Muddy sections and very soft turf were an issue, but we were able to stamp our boots on the mile of road that took us around the far side of the National Trust Brimham Rocks. These massive gritstone rocks, impressively eroded by ice and wind, were carried by a vast delta from the northern continental collision millions of years ago.
Broad sweeps of landscape, even from this modest height, were presented for us before we headed gently downhill through High Wood to Smelthouses In the 15th century when Fountains Abbey worked lead mines in this area, a bellows-blown smelting mill was located here. An old coach road led us off the Turnpike road, towards Low Laithe. We cut into delightful Knox Wood which brought us round to accompany Fell Beck again back into the west end of Smelthouses. This rocky beck flows abundantly and did support many mills. Continuing westward to Kiln House and across grazed fields we approached Blazefield again, concluding an interesting eight-mile walk.
Sawley
We gathered at Sawley Abbey and Philip provided some interesting facts about this small Cistercian abbey which existed from 1147 to 1537. Our walk began by crossing the River Ribble and making our way slowly uphill westwards, across Acreland and some little brooks. Above Hill Brook we took a break to enjoy the clear southerly view of lush landscape, and Pendle Hill, then continued an upward route to reach Till House. Beyond, and still gently climbing, we crossed Smalden Lane and focussed on Beacon Hill. Untortunately the promised light rain enveloped us here, but in an area of some protection, and still allowed a great panorama through the weather, we had our picnic lunch. The downhills were now in front of us, and some very interesting geological terrain. A track brought us to the magnificent Cob House, a talking point, past White Hall to join the very steep and charming West Clough Brook. Our route veered off eastwards to above Grindleton and across to Hill House before our final approach to Sawley
Anne and Philip Sugden led this very scenic seven-mile walk which we all enthusiastically appreciated.